Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarosse St Emilion Grand Cru Premier Grand Cru Classé B 2009

Subdued on the opening notes, wrapped in dark pepper spice, capsicum, fennel, incense and crayon. A sweeter, richer black cherry fruit emerges after good 15 minutes of opening, and the shape evolves in the glass, showing greater delicacy and nuance as the limestone soils give lift and texture. This was the vintage that Nicolas Thienpont and Stéphane Derenoncourt arrived at the estate, and began to shake things up.