Rightly seen as one of the all-time great vintages at Chateau Mouton Rothschild, after a vintage that favoured Cabernet Sauvignon and a harvest that stretched from October 2 to 16, so late and leisurely. One of those years that winemakers dream about - with quality and quantity. Crops came in at around 15% higher than in 1985, which itself was a pretty abundant year, and 1986 turned out to be the biggest crop since World War Two. Powerful, concentrated, still very much in its drinking window almost 40 years old, tannins now melted and resolved but going nowhere, and this brambled, cassis and blackberry fruit is just so inviting, sliced through with liqourice, espresso and crushed mint leaf. This is a wine that still, even now, benefits from an extremely long carafe - on a recent tasting a few years ago, when it wasn't quite showing up to expectations, it took a full 24 hours to suddenly burst out of the glass and show its brilliance. So my strong advice is that if you are not blown away immediately, put it to one side and come back, because this is magic in a bottle.

Delivers Lafleur electricity, if still a little serious at almost 20 years old. This remains a Cabernet Franc dominant vintage in its feel and aromatics, if not in blend, and the austerity of the early years has not entirely disappeared. Give it a few moments to unwind and show those seductive brushed tannins that cushion grilled black fruits, slate, graphite, smoked earth, cumin, black pepper, steel, violets and roses. Jacques Guinaudeau owner and winemaker, and this was still just four vintages since he had become sole owner, following 15 years renting from his aunts (first both, then one) the Robin sisters. Harvest October 8 to 14, after a challenging vintage that needed the attention to detail that Lafleur always delivers.

You can't go far wrong with this superb 2009. Has a kick in its step compared to many vintages of Duhart around this time, which tend to be a little more austere and buttoned up. This is infused by the generosity of the vintage, without going too far from its signature Pauillac reticence, delivering graphite, cedar, sandalwood, cassis, brambled blackberries and tons of cigar box and sage spice. Philippe Dhalluin director, under Rothschild ownership since 1962. Definitely in its drinking window, but going nowhere anytime soon.

A classically balanced and understated Issan, beautifully poised and almost ready to begin drinking - certainly with a good carafe. Expect savoury blueberry and redcurrant fruits, grilled earth with pomegranate, sage, white pepper, cigar box and peony aromatics. Sappy with fine tannins. 43hl/h yield, 50% new oak for ageing, Emmanuel Cruse owner.