In 1855, the estate was still owned by Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré, who married Jeanne de Las Cases and gave the estate its name. It would stay in their family until 1865. Captures the generosity and spice of 2003, and still going strong at 22 years old, against all odds at the time of this hot, dry harvest. Expect sandalwood, campfire smoke, cedar and black pepper alongside sweet black cherry flesh and supple tannic grip. 80% new oak, at a great moment to drink.

The estate that led the way in Sauternes, producing only sweet wine from 1847 onwards, owned by the Lur Saluces family since 1785, and named 1st Growth Supérieur in 1855, in reflection of prices that were regularly 4,000 francs and above, the highest in Bordeaux. Today in the hands of LVMH (although still Alexandre de Lur Saluces in 1990), this is a stunning wine full of fleshy opulent pineapple, apricot and tangerine fruit laced with butterscotch, creme brulee, saffron and finessed fresh acidities. Insanely good at 45 years old, and no question that it will keep on delivering from here. Even better than when I last had it three years ago.

Château Margaux in 1855 was owned by the Aguado family, bought in 1835 by Spanish banker Alejandro María Aguado. This was my wine of the night at the Bern's tasting, just utterly delicious and at a perfect moment to drink but will clearly keep delivering. I love this vintage on the Left Bank generally, and Margaux captures exactly why it is so special. Still so fresh, focused, long draw out, crushed roses, tobacco, violet, dried flowers, blackberry, saffron, fine tannins. 100% new oak, Paul Pontallier director for this vintage.

The only one of today's First Growths that was in the same family hands in 1855 as today, with Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild arriving in 1853. The story becomes even more interesting because in 1855 Nathaniel could only complain (and he did) as Mouton was placed at the head of the Second Growths. Looking specifically at the wine in front of us here, generally these 1995s are more charming but less concentrated than the 1996s, and can be a real surprise. Showing waves of creamy black cherry, cinnamon, turmeric, tobacco and orange peel, this is understated and moreish, and was a quiet winner among the tasters. Patrick Leon director, with the label by Catalan painter Antoni Tapies.