News Digest July 2024

by Valeria Tenison

Even though most of France clocks off for July, there’s still plenty of wine news in Bordeaux – particularly as the growing season in 2024 continues to provide challenges. On July 11, the vineyards of Bordeaux were struck by a severe hailstorm, with hailstones the size of golf balls causing extensive damage, particularly in the Sauveterre region to the south of Entre-deux-Mers. The full extent of the vineyard damage remains unclear, with potential losses of 20% to 70% of the 2024 harvest. This event compounds a year already troubled by mildew following a rainy spring. The mayor of Sauveterre-de-Guyenne has requested recognition of the state of natural disaster to aid affected winegrowers.

On a brighter note, the Bordeaux wine industry, grappling with overproduction and falling demand, is showing signs of recovery. The Bordeaux Wine Trade Council (CIVB) projects that for the 2024-2025 red Bordeaux AOC campaign, sales will exceed production for the second consecutive year, helping to clear the stock surplus. The harvest in 2024 is expected to be small due to adverse weather conditions, and combined with the grubbing-up plan and distillation efforts, production is set to drop further. For 2024, it is expected to be around 800,000 hectolitres, significantly lower than the stable sales figures of 1.1 to 1.2 million hectolitres seen in recent years. This imbalance will reduce the high stock levels, bringing the storage ratio down to about 12 months. By the end of 2025, stock levels are expected to be the lowest in a decade.

At the same time, the Bordeaux vineyard grubbing-up programme, intended to address issues of disease and overproduction, has fallen short of its targets due to adverse weather. As of mid-June, only 3,000ha of vineyards had been grubbed up, significantly less than the planned 9,500ha. Persistent and heavy rainfall since January 2024 has made it difficult for machinery to operate on the waterlogged plots, particularly east of the Garonne. The Bordeaux Wine Trade Council (CIVB) hopes for drier conditions in the coming weeks to allow winegrowers to complete the grubbing-up process before the extended deadline of July 31. The incomplete grubbing-up poses both economic and sanitary risks, as untreated plots can become breeding grounds for diseases.

Amidst these developments, the 2023 Bordeaux Primeurs campaign saw significant price reductions for some top crus classés to boost international sales, with an average drop of just over 20% on 2022 prices. Despite these cuts, the campaign has been slow, particularly in major markets like the United States and China.

Bordeaux is considering introducing a new category for the red AOC wine, making use of the traditional but almost-defunct term ‘claret’, in a surprising move that aims to increase options for the Bordeaux wine industry amid ongoing crises. Stéphane Gabard, President of the Syndicat des Bordeaux, outlines the plan to differentiate this new claret from the existing Bordeaux clairet, a deep-coloured rosé, positioning it as a light, aromatic red wine suitable for chilling. The proposal includes maintaining similar vineyard management practices as Bordeaux red but adjusting some oenological parameters, such as allowing optional malolactic fermentation and setting broad Modified Colour Intensity (MCI) and Total Polyphenol Index (TPI) ranges. Notably, sweetness up to 7 grams per litre may be added using rectified concentrated grape must (RCGM) to enhance drinkability and roundness. The claret designation aims to hit the market by the 2025 harvest.

Big changes at Château Larcis Ducasse in St Emilion, where director Nicolas Thienpont is retiring after 22 years at the helm – during which time he saw the estate promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé. He will remain at Château Pavie Macquin.

Larcis Ducasse will be headed up by David Suire as of August 1 – with the next generation of the owner family also stepping up, to be co-managed by Araine Gratiot and Amel Attmane.

And finally, held from June 27 to 30, the 14th edition of the Bordeaux Fête le Vin was a significant success, firmly underlining the importance of the event in the annual calendar despite facing challenges such as unfavourable weather, dense sporting and political news, and a complicated economic climate. Attendees enjoyed cultural and festive activities focused on wine tasting, viticulture, and responsible wine growing. The festival featured over 1,200 winegrowers and merchants from 80 appellations, alongside workshops and exclusive tastings of prestigious wines. Entertainment included drone shows, live concerts, and DJ sets, complemented by regional culinary offerings. The event also emphasised inclusivity and sustainability, maintaining its ISO 20121 certification and providing accessible facilities and activities for people with disabilities. The next Bordeaux Wine Festival is scheduled for June 19-22, 2025.

Sources: Échos de Bordeaux, Sud Ouest, Vitisphere, La Revue du Vin de France