The September Releases 2024
If you pick one wine: Opus One 2021
Best Value White: Giovanni Rosso Etna Bianco 2023
Best Value Red: Concerto di Fonterutoli 2022 (not the least expensive, but just outstanding value for the quality)
Best Newcomer: Château de Haut-Serre Grand Malbec 2022
Standout Wines: F. Algueira Dolio 2022, Domäne Serrig Serriger Vogelsang Kabinett 2021, La Chapelle 2022, Adrianna Mundus Bacillus 2021
This is now the fourth year of my September Releases report, and as ever it’s such a pleasure to taste, research and write about these incredible wines that cover so many different regions, styles and vintages. I hope that you join me in exploring these varied bottles, and remember that this page will be updated through September as I taste more wines, so please bookmark and keep coming back – this week they include Pym-Rae, L’Aventure Côte à Côte, L’Aventure Estate Cuvée.
There are well over 130 wines being released, with a number of interesting new names to look out for:
- A few new Italian wines, most notably three wines from Bibi Graetz in his Balocchi range. Last year he brought out two new wines from traditional Italian varieties, and they are joined this year by three from Bordeaux grapes. There are also new Bordeaux variety wines from Orma, with the Cabernet Franc dominant Aola di Orma 2021, the 2nd vintage for this bottling.
- Clos Apalta Prélude on the Place for the first time. A new bottling, with around 3,000 cases from wine usually declassified into Lapostelle from the Clos Apalta vineyards
- Château de Haute Serre Grand Malbec Cahors 2022 – as the Vigouroux family owners put it, ‘the first French Malbec to be released on the Place de Bordeaux since the Phylloxera Crisis’ (a little disingenuous since Bordeaux itself makes a few 100% Malbec wines, but we’ll let that slide…). Certainly it is an excellent example of a Cahors Malbec, and I thoroughly recommend
- Rheingau Riesling producer Schloss Johannisberg will be releasing on October 21 two wines: the Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Goldlack and the Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Orangelack Kabinett (not yet tasted).
- Tenuta Liliana Ladame, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from IGP Salento is also a first time on the Place wine, an interesting bottling from southern Italy.
- New label for Catena Zapata, first time since this wine was first released back in 1997, summing up what makes this wine so different (ungrafted pre-pylloxera vines, massal selection programme leading to the diversity of their DNA). It feels like Adrianna has clarified their approach to making distinctive fine wine, and it’s an excellent idea. A change upcoming with the 2022 vintage also, as Eric Boissenot joins the team as consultant.
- The 2019 Grange was released through the Place in March, and it is followed up just six months later by the 2020, reminding us all once again that this is just a great addition to the international wines coming out through the Bordeaux system.
- Tenuta Sant-Antonio’s Manfro Amarone 2019 was released through the Place last September, and the exact same vintage is coming out again now. I don’t repeat notes from wines that I tasted in the March Releases, but as this is a year later, I am including it for a second time. Their 2020 bottling is planned for the end of the year.
- Once again you are going to see a number of French wines in the lineup, besides the Vigouroux Cahors – with three estates from Burgundy, Domaine Chapuis, Domaine Quentin Jeannot and Les Héritiers Saint Génys (all were present last year, but have increased the number of wines in some cases). The Bordeaux Rothschild families are continuing to put their extended portfolio of wines through the Place, so Domaine de Baronarques (SA Baron Philippe de Rothschild), and Château d’Aussières (DBR Lafite). The Rhone is also well represented, most notably by the exceptional La Chapelle.
- I am including a new wine from Alicante in Spain, which is not on a wide négociant release, but is available through Bordeaux, with a Bordeaux consultant. Owned by the Vidal Balaguer family from vineyards set at almost 600m, both Vidal Balaguer and Albor de Masos are worth looking out for. They join the already excellent if small range of Spanish wines you can find in this report – as with last year, I strongly recommend Yjar (Rioja), Dolio (Ribeira Sacra) and Matallana (Ribero del Duero).
How to read this report
These are exceptional wines from some of the world’s greatest producers, so the high scores that many of the wines receive should be no surprise, although they also cover a wide range of styles, meaning the tasting notes need careful attention when assessing whether to buy. I have given two 100 point wines this year, to Opus One 2021 and Adrianna Mundus Bacillus 2021 (last year the top scores went to Bibi Graetz Colore 2021, Yjar 2019, and Giaconda Chardonnay 2021). The exceptional Favia Cerro Sur 2021, from Andy Erikson, gets 99 points.
But truly some of the best wines don’t receive these high-end scores. As with last year, I strongly recommend you look out for the Sicilian wines, which along with the Spanish wines. Among my favourite 94 points are Au Paradis 2021 from Peter Michael, Quintessa Illumination 2023, Giovanni Rosso’s fabulous Etna Bianco 2023 and Château de Haute Serre Grand Malbec 2022 (my best newcomer also).
Remember also to look at the drinking windows and serving instructions more carefully than you would with a classic Bordeaux vintage report, as there is such a wide range of styles here. As a rule, most of these wines are ready to drink earlier than a comparable Bordeaux wine, often because the tannins are less tight – and many have been held back at the winery until they are ready to drink.
To note
- As ever, the wines that are being released in September 2024 give us a picture of what has been happening in individual regions – Opus One, for example, is releasing for the first time an Overture that comes with a specific vintage. Until now Overture has been a multi-vintage wine.
- Favia and Opus are back with full new vintage releases from 2021, after last year choosing to not release their 2020s due to the Napa fires.
- It’s always worth bearing in mind vintage overviews in the different regions, although inevitably these are generalised rather than specific. To give you a flavour of what to expect:
- You can be pretty confident with Napa in 2021s, certainly when comparing it to the drier and above all hotter 2020 vintage, with its threat of fires. It was still drought conditions, but with less extremes.
- To note going forward, Andy Erikson and Annie Favia have partnered with Huneeus Vineyards, which will increased their potential production as of the 2023 vintage.
- I would be a little careful this year with the Tuscan 2022s. This was an extremely hot and dry year, where Chianti recorded the highest temperatures and lowest annual rainfalls ever. Average temperatures were 1.3C higher than the 30 year average, although there were very few heat spikes despite the drought. You can still find some of the exceptional Tuscan 2021s among the lineup, but as a rule I would suggest looking to the 2019s, 2020s and 2021s.
- We have wines from Chile in both 2021 and 2022 on the Place this September. These were pretty different years where 2021 was the wettest vintage in Chile since 2016, and 2022 got off to a slow, fairly cool start but then turned hot and dry just in time to deliver age-worthy reds.
- As with Chile, the 2021 vintage was relatively cool, and wet at times, with delayed ripening in some cases, although good weather had returned in time for harvest. 2022 was also challenging, although after another cool start, things were much better by harvest time, meaning some great quality reds in particular.
- Australia in 2020 saw one of the driest seasons on record, with rainfall in the Barossa down 50% on average. This meant tiny yields, although the temperatures were relatively cool, so there are some great aromatic wines to look out for, and highly tannic reds.
- Australia 2021
- Links with Bordeaux – Chianti one of the places that French merchants sourced fruit during Phylloxera. but concept of botting, labelling and exporting really happened after world war II.
- Accompanying these wines was an earlier release back in March 2024. You can find those tasting notes and overview here.
Market conditions
This is also the moment to look at not just the success of the individual wines, but what the September Releases tell us about the health of the market in general. There’s no doubt that this is not the easiest moment to bring out icon wines into a tough global market, and this must be the toughest year for these wines since the inception of the wider international releases. One clear indicator of this is that there are less new names appearing in this report compared to the 2023 or 2022 September Releases – there is a feel of consolidation, with both négociants and producers understanding that right now the key is to strengthen existing relationships. There are, however, still plenty of reasons to come here for this exceptional line up of producers, and the logistical strength and market reach of négociants continues to offer a formidable opportunity.
If you are a business subscriber, and are interested in using the Liv-ex/JaneAnson API to receive the scores, please contact us on hello@janeanson.com. And if you would like to share this report with others, please remember that we have a 10% discount offer for all signups from now til September 30 – just use the code 10OFFSEPT24 during the checkout process.
You can also read a general history of the Place and how it works here.
Austria | Score |
Domaine Kracher Burgenland Kracher Kollektion Grande Cuvée TBA No 3 2021 | 95 |
Germany | Score |
Domäne Serrig Mosel Serriger Vogelsang Kabinett 2021 | 96 |
Domäne Serrig Mosel Serriger Vogelsang Grosse Lage 2021 | 95 |
Weingut Dr. Loosen, Zach. Bergweiler-Prüm Erben | 00 |
Hungary | Score |
Château Pazjos Tokaj Essencia 2019 | 96 |
New Zealand | Score |
Craggy Range Martinborough Aroha Te Muna Pinot Noir 2022 | 96 |
Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Le Sol Syrah 2022 | 95 |
Destiny Bay Waiheke Island Magna Praemia 2021 | 91 |
South Africa | Score |
Vin de Constance Constantia 2021 | 98 |
Klein Constantia Constantia Valley Clara Sauvignon Blanc 2023 | 95 |
Argentina
Tasting Notes
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Adrianna Vineyard Mendoza Adrianna Mundus Bacillus 2021Violets and herb-strewn rose petals curl out of the glass, along with cola, mint, flint, slate, hawthorn, blueberry and black cherry fruit. One of the things that I love about this wine is how it rewrites the perception of Argentinian Malbec that is is known for its velvety sweet and smooth flavours, whereas this puts the texture and the grip back to its heart, along with a vivid brightness of fruit. There is chocolate here, but it is cocoa bean, focused and gripping and full of joy. Alejandro Vigil winemaker. Tasted twice.
Cobos Mendoza 2021Liqourice root and blackberry bud crowd in on the opening beats, this is muscular but extremely deft, gracefully stepping its way through the palate, blueberry and spiced raspberry fruit opening to gorgeous smoky campfire, rosemary, thyme and coffee bean, so full of character. Intensely flavoured but never too much, this is a pure shot of pleasure. A successful growing season, no heat spikes, long slow ripening, two vineyards that head up to 1,200m elevation. Ungrafted vines, own rooted, with native grasses that help keep humidity even though this is a low rainfall spot, and help absorb some of the sun's rays. Aged in 55% new Frech oak. Tasted twice.
Cheval des Andes Mendoza 2021A wonderful Cheval des Andes, luscious, layered, nuanced, a kick of nutmeg spice, blueberry and damson fruits, salted cracker mouthwatering finish, with deftly-handled freshness the signature of a cooler vintage. Gérald Gabillet winemaker, joint venture between Cheval Blanc and Terrazas de los Andes. 70% new oak for ageing.
Catena Zapata Mendoza Nicolas Catena Zapata 2021A cool vintage, although not as much as 2016, with precision and nuance, floral aromatics, raspberry leaf, black cherry and brambled hedgerow fruit, with tobacco and chamomile flowers, smoky and intense. This vintage sees a new label for the first time since this wine was first released back in 1997, pointing to what makes it so different from many Argentinian Cab-Malbec blends (ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines, whole cluster vinification, massal selection programme leading to the diversity of their DNA). 50% new oak for ageing. Alejandro Vigil winemaker. Tasted twice.
Adrianna Vineyard Mendoza Adrianna Mundus Bacillus 2011Enjoyable to retaste the first vintage of Adrianna, now at 13 years old; with an emphasis on smoky floral notes, grilled violets, with a fresh uplift through the palate. Captures the vivid brightness of the wine, with raspberry, cola, iris and peony florals, and its ageing ability. Alejandro Vigil winemaker.
Bodegas CARO Mendoza CARO 2022Concentrated plum purple colour, medium to full intensity with vibrant violet edging. This continues in its concentrated feel on the palate, expect slabs of deep blueberry and blackcurrant fruit, with cocoa dusting, violet flowers, liqourice and crayon. Captures the personality of both of its component varieties, and has clear consistency between vintages - this is a great bet for a carefully crafted Argentinian wine with a ton of signature. Joint venture between Nicolas Catena and Domaines Baron de Rothschild (Lafite), wine aged in barrels made in the Lafite cooperage in Pauillac. Oliver Tregoat winemaker, director Philipe Rolet.
Catena Zapata Mendoza Nicolas Catena Zapata 2004Softened to a sunset brick colour at 20 years old, grilled and smoky turmeric spice on the opening, this has a generosity and warmth to it that is totally delicious. Waves of blackberry and olive pit, oak influence still in evidence, giving campfire notes that weave through the fine tannic frame. 80% new oak for ageing.
Zuccardi Uco Valley Fina Canal Uco 2021An unusual style of Argentine Malbec and one that I thoroughly recommend, and often end up reaching for at home. Intense dark ruby in colour, fragrant violet aromatics, with cocoa bean and damson fruits, this is caressing and full of charm, takes a beat before the smoky grilled herbs kick in, never strays into overly sweet territory, maintaining definition and backbone. Sebastian Zuccardi winemaker and owner. Concrete vats for fermentation and ageing, natural yeasts, vineyard set at 1,100m in altitude on granite and limestone soils.
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Australia
Tasting Notes
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Penfolds South Australia Grange 2020The 2019 Grange was released through the Place in March, and it is followed up just six months later by the 2020, reminding us all once again that this is just a great addition to the international wines coming out through the Bordeaux system. Seductive, smoky, pure distilled blackcurrant and crushed blueberries, dill, black tea, raspberry leaf, violet. Just a gorgeous wine, with presence and character, hard to argue with. Peter Gago chief winemaker. Tom King director. 100% new American oak for ageing.
Penfolds South Australia Yattarna 2022Grip, tension and pleasure spring to mind as soon as you get onboard with this wine. So much depth and confidence on display, with a slate, gunsmoke and cold ash wave that offsets the rich citrus fruit, all laced with sage, lemongrass and white tea. Tom King director, Peter Gago chief winemaker.
Yalumba Barossa Valley The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2009To celebrate the 175th anniversary of the Hill-Smith family at Yalumba, they are releasing an extremely limited number of the 2009 from their 'museum collection'. The silky smooth tannins, and the balsamic, liquorice and eucalyptus edge set this wonderful Shiraz apart. Clarity of black fruit expression clear even at 15 years old, with charred sandalwood, cracked pepper and vanilla bean adding nuance. It won't be easy to get hold of this one, but if you do, you are in for a treat. Harvest 24 February to 6 April, first released January 2005. Aged in French and American oak barrels, 39% new, and a touch of Hungarian oak also. Old vine Shiraz, with a key section ungrafted from 1920, from Barossa and Eden Valley. Winemaker Kevin Glastonbury.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Coonawarra John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2021Deep inky purple, full concentration, gorgeous chalky tannins, this is just such a consistently impressive wine, with stretched out architecture and a real kick of freshness, full of Cabernet Sauvignon cassis that sits on the edge of capsicum and eucalyptus, with rose bud and raspberry leaf, black truffle, espresso, cocoa bean, peppery fleshy plum. Savoury, intense and highly spiced. Great quality, tasted twice, easily one of the best wines of the September Releases.
Cloudburst Margaret River Malbec 2021Just 0.2ha of vines for this beautiful Malbec from Will Berliner. Truly a winemaker who cares about his vineyard and what it produces, and here you feel the precision that has been teased out of the soils and the grapes. Silkier and more gourmet than the Cabernet in the range, this has crayon, cola, crushed raspberries, blackberry, roasted cherry pit. Lifts through the palate, deftly made with interest and personality, balanced between savoury and sweet, a punch of incense and crushed dried flowers on the finish. Excellent.
Penfolds South Australia St Henri Shiraz 2021Dark plum colour, intense with a kick of smoky oak. A wine that showcases the concentration and spice to an Australian Shiraz even without any new oak, puts the focus on aromatics, fragrant grilled cumin, rose petal, black olives, baked spice and grilled herbs. Just awesome - but don't approach yet, this honestly could do with six or seven years to even rev up to the starting blocks. Tasted during the September Releases, and also at an incredible vertical held in Paris back in January that more than showed how St Henri can hold its own and improve for decades. Peter Gago chief winemaker.
Jim Barry Clare Valley The Armagh 2021Always a pleasure to get to know a new vintage of The Armagh, and this one kicks off with fragrant aromatics that really put emphasis on the violet and iris character of Shiraz, followed up by cassis fruit, liqourice and rosemary, and a kick of black pepper. 3.3ha of vines, winemaker Peter Barry, working with his brother Sam. Sandy-gravel soils. 75% new oak for ageing, mainly 300l with a few 500l barrels, bottled unfined and unfiltered. Decades ahead of it, but the supple tannins make it approachable now.
Yalumba Barossa Valley The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2019Fascinating having this alongside the 2009. The tannins here are still silky, but younger and more muscular at five years old, with the fruit clearly sweeter and more dense. Think raspberry and blackberry pastille, still with the through-line of balsamic and liquorice, and here a slab of black chocolate, rosemary and olive pit, with a tar and campfire smoke twist on the finish. Delicious now, but will reward ageing and then some. Harvest February 22 to March 15. Average age of the vines at this point is 104 years, with 55% Eden Valey and 45% Barossa (significantly higher Eden sourcing than was the case a decade earlier). 25% new French oak.
Giaconda Estate Vineyard Beechworth Giaconda Chardonnay 2022Twist of matchstick and gunsmoke on the opening, this is steely, mineral and powerful, still coming round to its drinking window. As such, it will benefit from a carafe to highlight the stone fruit, citrus and sage character, along with the deliciously gentle crush of grated ginger on the finish. Unfiltered and unfined, 30% new oak. 2022 was a slightly cooler and rainier season than average, and the palate has a slice less grip than the 2021, with a focus on juice and savoury fruit. A beautiful wine from this distinctive granite and clay soils.
Cloudburst Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2021A distinctive take on Cabernet Sauvignon from this gorgeous estate in Western Australia, bringing in a ton of succulent fresh black fruits, spiced plum, black olive and cassis, with concentration that gathers lift through the palate. Juicy, vivid sage and liqourice bud, so full of character, fine supple tannins, touch of salinity on the close of play. 0.8ha of vines, winemaker and owner Will Berliner.
Cloudburst Margaret River Cloudburst Chardonnay 2022Pale gold colour, intense aromatics, white peach, a good kick of gunsmoke, steel, slate and citrus, extremely enjoyable Chardonnay, from just 1ha of vines, drawn out and intense, walks the line of concentration and finesse. Will Berliner winemaker and owner.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Coonawarra Michael Shiraz 2021Intense plum colour, raspberry and red cherry on the nose, lightly spiced with rosemary and liqourice root. Plenty of evident floral character, delivering white pepper and peony, along with the elongated, chalky tannins of Coonawarra. Great stuff, supremely drinkable, balanced, full of punch and personality with just enough restraint to be totally moreish.
Penfolds Barossa Valley Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022Bright, vibrant floral rose petal aromatics that lean into the primary fruit, black cherry and raspberry, with supple tannins that are young and muscular but giving plenty of space and light to the fruit. 100% new American oak, Peter Gago chief winemaker. Bottled in November 2023. Tasted during the September Releases, and also in Paris back in January.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Coonawarra Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2022Inky plum in colour, clearly no issues with colour extraction in what was a relatively long and cool growing season. Things are a little earthier on the palate than usual, still with brambled hawthorn and blackberry fruits, tannins young and a little austere but with a ton of fresh capsicum and white pepper spice running through them. 67th vintage of this wine, from the oldest estate in the Coonawarra region.
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Austria
Tasting Notes
Domaine Kracher Burgenland Kracher Kollektion Grande Cuvée TBA No 3 2021So good, full of gorgeous apricot puree, coconut leaf, pineapple, saffron, cumin, turmeric, silky and opulent without being overly sweet, just a beautiful slice of pleasure. Winemaker Gerhard Kracher.
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Chile
Tasting Notes
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Clos Apalta Apalta Valley 2021Hillside granitic vineyards, alongside older vines dating back to 1907 on the flatlands. A kick of spice greets you on the opening, this is reserved at first with carefully constructed dense blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, deeply coloured, cocoa dusted, opening to show rose bud and lilac, with an edge of capsicum and cayenne pepper. Exceptionally good quality. 78% new oak for ageing, 3.79ph. Andrea Léon technical director, organically farmed.
Vinedo Chadwick Puente Alto 2022Good quality, with a loose-limbed feel to the tannic architecture that is just so appealing, giving a confident hold to the fennel and bitter chocolate notes that run through the cassis and bilberry fruits. Great quality, heads towards eucalyptus and mint leaf after a few minutes in the glass, this is intense and with confident grip on the finish, great lift on the finish, full of personality.
Almaviva Puente Alto 2022Plush tannins balanced by pulses of acidity, this is sensational, with waves of olive paste, cassis, bilberry, smoked vanilla bean, cocoa dusted, set off by violet overtones on the aromatics. Will benefit from a few years in bottle, and will go the distance in terms of ageing potential. Harvest started March 21, three days earlier than 2021 but five days later than 2020, and ended on April 29 for Cabernet, with Carménère brought in between May 2 and 11, after a season with just 79mm of total rainfall. Rothschild & Concha Y Toro owners, 70% new oak for ageing. Michel Friou winemaker.
Montes Valle del Maipo Montes Muse 2021Rich and intense, with plenty of punch and character to its blackberry and damson fruits. This was a relatively wet vintage in Chile, but here you get a confident, sculpted wine that is laced with cocoa bean and liqourice root, giving plenty of Cabernet depth, clear long ageing potential with a cooling crushed mint leaf purity on the finish. 70% new oak for aging, Aurelio Montes del Campo winemaker.
ViK Cachapoal Valley ViK Millahue 2021Deep plum colour, a clear smudge of grilled brambled fruits, blackberries and damson, tar, olives, confident and vivid, mint leaf freshness from the Cabernet Franc gives a lift and shot of floral-tinged freshness that is welcome with the gourmet cocoa-dusted tannins. From vines planted first in 2006, first vintage 2010. Christian Vallejo winemaker (had previously worked at both Ch Margaux and Ch Berliquet in Bordeaux). 90% of the wine is aged in 'recycled' barrels (meaning that they make the barrels onsite from Sylvain staves sourced in France, toasted locally in Chile, while the remaining 10% is aged in locally-sourced clay amphora made by a Chilean artisan. Native yeast fermentation, 2.65ph, 3.6/l residual sugar. Tasted twice. On the Place since 2023.
Vina Santa Rita Valle del Maipo Casa Real 2021Concentrated fennel, cocoa bean, aniseed and dried herbs, this is good quality, with lift and freshness, plenty of cooling mint on the finish, a little austere right now but with ageing potential. Sebastian Labbé winemaker, Andres Lavados director, 19.8ha vineyard.
Vina Seña Valle del Aconcagua Seña 2022Liqourice, aniseed, fennel, cocoa bean, intense and powerful, reflecting a good quality vintage with low rainfall but few excess temperatures. Harvest August 5 to 23, 70% new oak barrels for ageing, along with 10% 2,500l oak casks. Emily Faulconer winemaker, heading over from Vina Carmen.
Clos Apalta Apalta Valley Clos Apalta Le Petit Clos 2021High Carmanère for the blend of this wine, in a cooler vintage coming both from the flattlands and the hillsides, so expect fresh tomato leaf and white pepper spice, with excellent grippy tannins with a lean character to the fruit, spiced plum laced with white pepper. A touch of heat appears on the back of the throat. 3.56ph. Andrea Léon technical director, 37% new oak for ageing.
Almaviva Puente Alto Almaviva Epu 2022Cabernet dominant in character, majoring on cassis, fennel and blueberry, chocolate, cocoa bean, with velvety tannins. It's a lovely wine, with a kick of spice, but the drought of the season is more apparaent with Epu than with Almaviva, expect just a trace of heat on the opening. Rothschild & Concha Y Toro owners, 10% new oak for ageing. Michel Friou winemaker.
Clos Apalta Apalta Valley Clos Apalta Prélude 2022Crisp crunchy fruit, vivid, edges of sour cherry and high dried herbs, spice and fresh acidities giving an emphasis on floral character. Some rosebud and tomato leaf alongside, and a bitter finish. It's attractive, with slate lift to the tannins. Harvest began March 11, a few days later than 2021. 17% new oak barrels for ageing, 3.6ph. This is a new wine in the Clos Apalta range, with around 3,000 cases from grapes usually declassified into Lapostelle. Cool dry vintage with 35% lower yields than 2021. Andrea Léon technical director.
Sena Valle del Aconcagua Rocas de Sena 2022Intense and a little austere at first, but quickly a juicy wave of redcurrant and bilberry fruit floods the palate. This is a dry vintage in Chile, although not particularly hot until the end of the growing season, giving good quality wines that need some time in bottle to loosen.
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France
Tasting Notes
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Château Latour Pauillac 1855 1er Cru 2009Unmistakable Latour in an exceptional vintage, so you should expect a muscular, sculpted and confident wine that is bursting with Pauillac character, showcasing the brilliance of this clay-gravel location overlooking the Gironde Estuary. Still just emerging from its primary stage but just about ready to drink if you give it long enough in a carafe - although it will be even better with another decade. Think blackberry, bilberry, cassis, charcoal, slate, sage, incense, cigar box, grilled cumin and a ton of black chocolate shavings. 100% new oak for ageing, Penelope Godefroy vineyard director, Frederic Engerer director. Tasted a few times this year, and here I am adding to the two notes that are already on this site, one at 100 points, and one at 98 points.
Domaine de la Chapelle Hermitage La Chapelle 2022A wonderful glass of wine, juicy, controlled, restrained, fragrant, enticing. The tannins are cashmere smooth, waves of crushed raspberries and wild strawberries fill the mouth, and this is easy to fall in love with. Fine tannins, blackberry and cranberry fruits, softly sweet while retaining grip and power. 21ha of vines. Caroline Frey owner and winemaker. Gregory Joannes-Hurst director.
Clos Lanson Champagne Clos Lanson Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2010Light on its feet but with plenty of weight through the mid palate, this is strikingly expressive. Pale honeyed straw, still delicate and finessed but moving beyond the translucence of a young Champagne, gathering depth at almost 15 years old with hints of brioche, grilled vanilla bean, gentle smoke, elderflower, citrus and crushed biscuit. The grapes are vinified in oak barrels from the Argonne forest during few months, no malolactic fermentation. Hervé Dantan chef de cave, Emmanuel Gantet director. 3g/l dosage.
Château de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 2022Such a great wine, powerfully concentrated, laced through with rosemary, cut dried herbs, blackberry, liqourice, crushed rocks, cumin, underbrush, all overlaid with a more delicate raspberry leaf fragrance. This was a hot dry year, and you can find plenty of grilled spice notes, even heading as far as incense, but this hugs the palate and has so much grip through the finish. 4ha of vines, César Perrin winemaker.
Domaine de Baronarques Limoux 2022Dominant Syrah personality in this vintage comes through in spiced raspberry, fragrant liqourice, white tea and black pepper spice. Juicy, good persistency, great quality. Augustin Deschamps director, Fabrice Boullier winemaker. Tasted twice.
Philipponnat Champagne Clos des Goisses Extra Brut 2015Vibrant and vivid in its pale gold colour and bright aromatics, this is an exceptionally impressive Champagne, elderflower, citrus, persistent lift with gentle pulses of fresh acidity set against richer brioche and toasted almond. Fermented half stainless steel and half in Burgundy barrels. 4.5g/l dosage, Thierry Garnier winemaker.
Domaine de la Chapelle Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg 2022Intense and precise, riven with citrus, oyster shell and salted cracker, with grip and lift that runs from the opening notes to the finish, a delicious white wine that plays with reduction, can drink now but it really will reward several years in bottle. Particularly impressive to maintain this sculpted juice in such a hot vintage. Caroline Frey owner and winemaker, Gregory Joannes-Hurst director.
Leclerc Briant Champagne Chateau D'Avize Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2014Bright, full of intensity, charm and character. Waves of pear, white peach and savoury mango, biscuit and white truffle, concentrated with lift and scrape on the finish. Plenty of persistency to the bubbles. 9ha vineyard, Hervé Jestin cellar master, 2.7g/l dosage.
Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2021Love this, just so full of juicy black fruits, griotte cherries, sage, rosemary and underbrush, feel the limestone clutch of acidity, fresh and mouthwatering with a pure core of fruit. Excellent wine in a vintage that was not all smooth sailing. Reynald Delille director.
Château de Haute Serre Cahors Château de Haute Serre Grand Malbec 2022Plump, vibrant, glass-staining ruby colour, medium to full intensity, grilled raspberry on the opener, this has well-judged weight through the palate, releasing its spices and fruits slowly but surely. I was almost expecting it to be overly oaked, particularly with the heavy bottle weight, but it has a sculpted feel, with fruit given due prominence, sweet damson and spiced pomegranate with just a hint of oak. Edge of palma violets chalkiness on the finish, a classic signature of Malbec on limestone soils (here with dense clay also). This is delicious, setting out the stall for Cahors. First time on the Place de Bordeaux. Six months in bottle after ageing before release, 50% new oak, 20% amphora. Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux owner and winemaker.
Odysée Vin de France 2021Love the aromatics on this wine, with an emphasis on cold woodsmoke, soft tar and tomato leaf, alongside blueberry and blackberry fruits, with liqourice, pomegranate and a rinse of powerful garrigue, sage and white pepper spice. A brilliant vintage for Odysee, relatively cool so ensuring juice is front and centre. Rhone-Bordeaux blend (bottled as Vin de France) from Mathieu Dumarcher and Pierre Graffeuille, first vintage 2015, 3.2ha of vines across the Médoc, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas.
Domaine Chapuis Corton Perrières Domaine Chapuis Corton Perrières Grand Cru 2022Concentrated and intense, with a core of blueberry and raspberry fruits, a dusting of white pepper, liqourice, and saffron, great rise through the palate, subtle yet with grip and length, and a mouthwatering signoff. 1ha of vines.
Les Héritiers Saint-Genys Mercurey 1er Cru Les Héritiers Saint-Genys Clos Marcilly Monopole 2022Great quality, citrus, saffron, white pepper, slate, twist of charred apple tart, great stuff. A 2.95ha monopole since 2016. Jean-Baptiste Alinc winemaker.
Domaine Chapuis Corton Charlemagne Domaine Chapuis Corton Charlemagne 2022Pale gold in colour, opens with cold ash, citrus, baking spice, grated ginger, with an edge of steel. Excellent quality, this is vivid and full of charm. Pierre Chapuis winemaker, from a tiny plot of less than 1ha of vines.
Domaine de Baronarques Limoux Domaine de Baronarques Blanc 2022Gentle grated ginger spice, white pepper, sage and citrus. Good quality, not as slate-scraping in texture as some vintages of Baronarques Blanc but still great quality with intense fruit, plenty of depth and a mouthwatering kick on the finish. Augustin Deschamps director, Fabrice Boullier winemaker.
Champagne Thiénot Champagne La Vigne aux Gamins 2013Crisp and clean on the aromatics as they drift out of the glass, gentle persistence to the bubbles, slight hint of honeysuckle on the opening notes, and a gentle hit of frangipane, green apple and citrus, with gentle toasted notes and plenty of fresh acidities, good balance. The only single plot of the Thiénpont range, produced most years (all except two) since 1997, 0.5ha in Avize slopes. This was the latest growing season of the last 40 years, with picking beginning only at the end of September, around two to three weeks behind usual schedule. 8.4TA, 3.01ph, 4g/l malic (they do no malolactic fermentation here), with 6g/l dosage. A Champagne that is very much ready to enjoy now, but will deepen further over the next decade. Nicolas Uriel chef de caves.
Barons de Rothschild Champagne Barons de Rothschild Rare Collection Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2014Rounded citrus, elderflower and lime zest, soft gunsmoke, fresh acidities that widen and deepen through the palate, grilled oak notes gently add layers. Excellent, easy to recommend. 3g/l dosage, Guillaume Lété winemaker, Frédéric Mairesse director.
Domaine Chapuis Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru Domaine Chapuis Aloxe Corton Premier Cru 2022Medium intensity pale ruby red. Liqourice and red cherry flood the opening notes here, with subtle and well balanced grilled raspberry, tobacco leaf, gunsmoke, fine tannins. 1.5ha of vines, Pierre and Claire Chapuis winemakers since 2019 (6th generation in Aloxe-Corton). 15% new oak for ageing, delivers plenty of Pinot finesse.
Les Héritiers Saint-Genys Santenay Blanc Les Héritiers Saint-Genys Santenay 20222Intense, plenty of character to the white peach and green mango fruit here, with a touch of grilled pear tart and gunsmoke, enjoyable, deftly put together with a juicy signoff. First time of the Place for this wine, 2.95ha of grapes, Jean-Baptiste Alinc winemaker.
Château d'Aussières Corbières 2020Deep cherry red, intense and characterful, good quality, kicks off with a twist of bitter orange peel, with pomegranate, blueberry and cassis fruits, liqourice root, black chocolate, salt-licked with rosemary spice. Jean de Roquefeuille director, heading over to Aussières after a number of years at Château Rieussec. Olivier Tregoat consultant at this 167ha estate.
Barons de Rothschild Champagne Barons de Rothschild Rare Collection Rosé Extra Brut 2014Savoury raspberry and redcurrant, touches of tomato leaf and white flowers, excellent quality, savoury and bright. 4g/l dosage, Guillaume Lété winemaker, Frédéric Mairesse director.
Domaine Chapuis Aloxe-Corton Domaine Chapuis Aloxe Corton 2022Jewel-ruby coloured, soft floral notes on the aromatics, this captures the delicacy and finesse of Aloxe Corton even in a hot year, with a feeling of lightly stepping through the palate emphasising crunchy red fruits that are balanced and moreish. Easy drinking, charming. 2.5ha of vines, Pierre Chapuis winemaker.
Château Terrebrune Bandol 2023Rose petals, dried flowers, raspberry, orange peel, this is cheerful and captures the gourmet brightness of a Bandol rosé, just a little sweet on the finish. Daniel Abrial winemaker.
Domaine Quentin Jeannot Pommard Quentin Jeannot Pommard Vieilles Vignes 2022Nuanced tobacco, violet, peony, a lighter-styled Pommard but good quality, with savoury redcurrant, cranberry and red cherry flavours. Light filtering, no fining, ageing on fine lees, native yeasts fermentation. 40hl/h yield. Quentin Jeannot winemaker and owner.
Domaine Quentin Jeannot Bourgogne Blanc Quentin Jeannot Cuvée Marcel 2022Ripe pear and stone fruit on the opening, this is succulent and enjoyable, with bright wet stone minerality, gathering in intensity through the palate, juicy signoff. Quentin Jeannot winemaker, 0.24ha of vines.
Domaine de Baronarques Limoux La Capitelle de Baronaques 2022Spiced greengage plums, rhubarb, fresh acidities, a little austere with a rustic charm. A good value wine from a Rothschild estate located high in the Limoux mountains. Augustin Deschamps director, Fabrice Boullier winemaker.
Domaine Quentin Jeannot Santenay Santenay Vieilles Vignes 2022Medium intensity colour, fresh acidities, plenty of raspberry fruit, white pepper spice, this is reserved, finesesd, soft raspberry and cranberry. Vines are 70 years old, 12 months on fine lees then bottled, 4000 bottles per year. Quentin Jeannot winemaker and owner.
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Germany
Tasting Notes
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Domäne Serrig Mosel Serriger Vogelsang Kabinett 2021Finely boned and graceful with soaring architecture, this is a brilliant Riesling from Markus Molitor, full of flint, angular, crisp, saline, concentrated green apple and white mango, one of the wines of the September Releases.
Domäne Serrig Mosel Serriger Vogelsang Grosse Lage 2021Matchstick and campfire smoke on the opening, gorgeous stretched out architecture, expands through the palate while never loosening the grip. Slate, citrus, juicy elderflower. Markus Molitor delivering a delcious Riesling here, one to track down and share.
Weingut Dr. Loosen, Zach. Bergweiler-Prüm ErbenNote to come
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Hungary
Tasting Notes
Château Pazjos Tokaj Essencia 2019Dominant apricot and white truffle, this is rich and powerful, full of luscious amber fruit and spice. Intense and concentrated, a wine that is made in tiny quantities, intended to be drunk as a drop of pure pleasure. Just have a look at the alcohol content to get some idea of why this is so special - it's just 4% because it has a residual sugar level of somewhere close to 500g/l, making it basically beguiling, tempting, luxurious liquid sugar, collected from the free run juice, no pressing involved, left to ferment slowly in glass jars. Winemaker Thomas Lazlo, owner Jean-Louis Laborde (as with Château Clinet in Bordeaux).
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Italy
Tasting Notes
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Bibi Graetz IGT Toscana Balocchi No 3 Colorino 2021Delicious, perfectly judged weight, gorgeously savoury, sour cherry, cola and slate, with streaks of sage and fennel herbs. Extremely moreish and perfect with food, because there is a mouthwatering quality but barely a trace of sweetness. Love this. Single variety from the Podere di Vincigliata vineyard, the main family plot that also has grapes used for Colore. Bibi Graetz owner and winemaker.
Siepi Toscana IGT 2022Deep ruby in colour, this is concentrated compared to many in Tuscany, love the super savoury feel, tongue-scraping architecture, with so much freshly cut herb edging and heavy liqourice root and gunsmoke alongside raspberry and cassis fruit. Brilliant, up there with the very best of the Bordeaux-Tuscan wines, where the grapes and the region truly each play their part in creating the personality of the wine. The vineyards for Siepi are in Castellina in Chianti, harvest September 5 to 17, 70% new oak for ageing, large oak casks for the Sangiovese, then three months in concrete tanks before release. Tasted with the September Releases and again at the estate.
Bibi Graetz Toscana IGT Colore 2022Jewel-like ruby in colour, translucent although perhaps a little deeper than some vintages. One to sink into, captures a juiciness and delicacy even in the heat of 2022. Medium intensity, raspberry and ripe red fruits, well judged, intense with a kick of orange peel, rosemary, tobacco, white tea, pomegranate, cherry pit, cut herbs, underbrush, savoury yet with a finish of sweet red liqourice, love it. Great balance, and we are fully in vivid Tuscan pleasure here from owner and winemaker Bibi Graetz.
Tenuta Sant-Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Manfro Amarone 2019Sweet spices, cinnamon, star anise, black pepper, capsicum, plum pudding, black cherry and damson fruits, layered with grilled cocoa and coffee beans, mocha and creme de cassis, wrapped up with a bitter kick of aniseed. Paolo Castagnedi winemaker, 500l oak barrels for ageing. Same vintage released last September also.
Castello di Fonterutoli Toscana IGT Concerto de Fonterutoli 2022Love the slow build of this wine, it gently climbs through the palate, savoury and restrained at first, then opening up with a smile, plenty of welcoming dried herbs, chamomile tea, dried rosebuds, orange peel, raspberry fruits. Great quality, full of concentration and lift, push and pull, and just so juicy on the finish. Great stuff, from soils of decomposed limestone and sandstone, aged in large oak casks for the Sangiovese and small barrels for the Cabernet Franc, then 3 months in concrete tanks before bottling. Mazzei family, winemaker Gionarta Pulignani. Tasted with the September Releases and again at the estate.
Bibi Graetz IGT Toscana Colore Bianco 2023Textured and structured, with initially reserved aromatics that, as with last year's vintage, really uncurl after 24 hours in fridge, or at least a good few hours in a carafe. Beautifully layered poached pear and peach pit, sage, dried herbs, white pepper, emphasis less on fruits than minerality and an oyster shell saline finish, with flinty juiciness. Bibi Graetz owner and winemaker, 8ha vineyard.
Bibi Graetz IGT Toscana Balocchi No 8 Canaiolo 2021Sweet raspberry puree, red cherry, rose petals, tobacco, charming, balanced, attractively moreish juicy finish, this is a delicious wine, easy to enjoy, full of charm. Old vines from Podere dell'Olmo vineyard set at 450m altitude. Second vintage through the Place de Bordeaux.
Masseto Toscana IGT 2021Concentrated grapes in a hot vintage means expect this to be a rich, concentrated Masseto, exuberant with luxurious tannins. Beautiful depth on the aromatics from the first moment, with rich fruit flavours that flood the palate, tons of liquorice, olive pit, chocolate shavings, cocoa bean, rosemary, freshly cut herbs, underbrush, opulent and powerful, flash of heat that subsides after a moment but is evident on the opening. Marco Balsimelli winemaker, Marchesi Frescobaldi owners. 11ha vineyard, 24 months ageing in barrel then 12 months in bottle before release, 100% new oak. Back to 100% Merlot in this vintage.
Bibi Graetz IGT Toscana Balocchi No 10 Cabernet Sauvignon 2021Perhaps this is the most interesting of the three Bordeaux grape bottlings of Balocchi, because it has gorgeous depths to it, extremely confident delivery of cassis and creamy blueberry fruits. Savoury, firm tannins, fresh fragrant spices, great stuff. Sourced from Podere dell'Olmo, the same vineyard as th Balocchi No 8 Canaiolo.
Bibi Graetz Toscana IGT Testamatta 2022Takes time to open up, a structured vintage of Testamatta, full of charm. Juicy, savoury, unfussy, white tea, sage, cranberry, red cherry, mandarin, delicious stuff from winemaker Bibi Graetz. Fermented and aged in a mix of 500l casks and 225l new oak barrels, natural yeasts, three punch downs per day, then into neutral oak barrels for 18 months before botting. Harvest September 15 to mid October.
Giovanni Rosso Etna Bianco Etna Bianco 2023Intense bright citrus, gooseberry, white pear and mandarin peel, with a hint of gingerbread, this is full of subtle spice, concentrated in all the right places, with a juicy sign off. Such a great value wine, and so easy to recommend. Held on lees for five month in stainless steel vats, no oak ageing.
Caiarossa Toscana IGT 2021A wine that builds slowly and carefully through the palate. Hedgerow raspberry, with juice and bracken, iris flowers, not too sweet, good quality, carefully constructed, well balanced, juicy finish, edges of cocoa dusting, pomegranate, raspberry, fine but firm tannins, clear edges of spice add depths and interest, with underbrush giving an Italian edge. First vintage with Jerome Poisson as winemaker, AJ Domaines owner. Harvest September 2 to 21. The blend of grapes below is completed by 2% Grenache.
Bibi Graetz IGT Toscana Testamatta Bianco 2023Savoury spiced white pear, apple compote, deliciously structured yet unfussy, lifts through the palate and is made for food. Bibi Graetz owner and winemaker, 8ha vineyard.
Orma Toscana IGT 2022This wine always brings the finesse, with a medium intensity jewel-like colour and a clear focus on red fruits, raspberry, cranberry, touch of salinity brought by its location close to the sea, layered with dried roses, cassis bud, orange peel, savoury white pepper and mint leaf. Good quality and a clear Tuscan interpretation of the Bordeaux grapes, making this a wine to seek out. One year in bottle after barrel ageing before release. Clay, gravel and sand soils, vineyard located just 15m above sea level, Moretti Cuseri family, first vintage 2005. Heavy bottle a little incongruous.
Tenuta Sette Ponti Toscana IGT Sette 2021Medium ruby colour, sour cherry and underbrush opener, captures moreish levels of freshness and acidity, savoury and with charm, a little reserved but as it opens it becomes creamy, enticing and easy to love. Touch of heat on the finish, but plenty to enjoy. Seven different plots of Merlot make up this wine. 12 months in bottle after ageing before release.
Bibi Graetz IGT Toscana Balocchi No 7 Cabernet Franc 2021This is impressive, with plenty of personality and depth, sculpted liquorice, sinewy tannins, rose petals, cassis bud, black tea, again some bitterness on the finish, a savoury Cabernet Franc infused with Tuscan herbs. Sourced from Podere dell'Olmo, the same vineyard as th Balocchi No 8 Canaiolo.
Giovanni Rosso Barolo DOCG Giovanni Rosso Cerretta 2020Beautifully pale jewel-ruby colour, translucent and vibrant, subdued on the nose at first, with waves of soft raspberry, gentle tobacco, fresh acidities, this is a classic Cerretta, some austerity and chalky flinty tannins, orange peel, sage, freshly cut herbs, subtle and delicious. Lovely balance. 365m altitude, 25 and 50hl oak barrels for ageing.
Parusso Barolo DOCG Riserva Bussia Vigna Munie 2015Only made in exceptional vintages, this is pale ruby in colour, delicately structured, opening with tobacco leaf, floral, gunsmoke, rose petals, sweet raspberry puree, gaining in intensity through the palate, gathering edges of tar and campfire. Extremely pretty, plenty of Barolo signature, ready to drink, enticingly bitter on the finish, anis and grilled fennel brings you back for another sip. Native yeasts, long ageing in bottle before release, vines in Monteforte d'Alba with south/southwest exposure.
Bibi Graetz IGT Toscana Balocchi No 9 Merlot 2021Attractive, well weighted, not overdone, with Bibi Graetz's signature skill on display. Ripe red fruits, touch of brambled hedgerow and rosemary herbs, freshly cut with a touch of liqourice root. The high alcohol is well balanced, with a welcome note of bitterness on the finish that brings the Tuscan touch. It's good quality. Sourced from Podere dell'Olmo, the same vineyard as th Balocchi No 8 Canaiolo.
Orma Bolgheri Superiore Aola di Orma 2021Medium to full intensity, deep raspberry colour, with dried herbs and incense on the opening, with a ton of tobacco leaf and grilled herbs woven through the black cherry and damson fruits. Needs plenty of time for the tannins to elongate and soften. Only the second vintage of this Cabernet Franc-dominant wine, from vineyards along the Tuscan coast in Bolgheri, 60m altitude. 50hl/h yield, six months in bottle after ageing before release. Lovely wine from the Moretti Cuseri family.
Masseto Toscana IGT Massetino 2022Clear cinnamon and baking spices on the nose, a ton of personality, Tuscan character in spades. Spice, liquorice and underbrush, plump red fruits, sweet but balanced by fresh acidities and a ton of lift on the finish. Moreish and easy to share. Marco Balsimelli winemaker, Marchesi Frescobaldi owners. 11ha vineyard, a classic year for Tuscany, if on the extreme end of that with high temperatures and low rainfall. 50% new oak for ageing, 12 months in barrel then 3 months in bottle.
Giovanni Rosso Etna Rosso 2021Light cherry red, almost translucent but for the vibrant reflections and the medium intensity core, opens with a sweet shot of red cherry on the first nose. The tannins are rustic in the most charmingly unfussy way, with the red fruits set against delicious cut orange peel edges. So easy to sink into, just love these wines. Andrea Delpiano winemaker, vineyards at 730-750m altitude.
Orma Bolgheri Passi di Orma 2022Cherry red in colour, this opens to bitter almonds, orange peel, strawberries, sage, fennel, dried herbs. We are very much in an Italian take on the Bordeaux grape varieties, juicy, savoury, good quality. Southwest exposure, 15 year old vines at 7,800h/h plantigs, 10 months ageing in small French oak barrels then 6 months in bottle before release.
Tenuta Sette Ponti Toscana IGT Oreno 2022Creamy raspberry on the opening, fine tannins, well structured, a little austere at this point, pulled in with chamomile and tobacco, fresh and cooling mint is a welcome addition through the mid palate. This is well constructed, but a little ungenerous with a flash of heat, reflecting a challengingly hot and dry vintage in Tuscany. Heavy bottle. 12 months in bottle after ageing before release. Tasted twice.
La Massa Toscana IGT Giorgio Primo 2020Satiny texture here, with soft brambled fruits on the nose, definitely an Italian take on the Bordeaux varieties, you feel far more spice and crunch than in Bordeaux, and it's an appealing wine, balanced and savoury, silky cocoa bean, cappuccino, sour cherry. A growing season with a gentle winter, early bud break then cool and rainy spring, some storms over the summer meant a slower harvest than usual, 50% new oak for ageing, bottling in March 2023 before release a year later, 3.75ph.
Tentua Liliana Salento IGT Ladame 2022Dark ruby in colour, raspberry leaf, medicinal edge with cooling mint leaf, this is a little angular, lacks the generosity of most Italian wines, although sit with it a while, as there is a pleasingly savoury juiciness that grows through the palate. An interesting wine from the Specchia region in Salento, Puglia, with soils of silt-sand with around 20% clay, 200m above sea level with breezes. 3.63ph, just 1.8ha of vines, planted in 2018, 100% new oak for ageing.
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New Zealand
Tasting Notes
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Craggy Range Martinborough Aroha Te Muna Pinot Noir 2022Fragrant and finessed, with bay leaf, cranberry, crushed raspberries, tobacco and waves of soft incense and gunsmoke. Gathers in strength over the palate, and the tannic arcitecture will clearly sustain ageing but it's finely spun enough to go young if you prefer. Gorgeous vineyard in Martinborough, natural yeast fermentation, unfined with light filtration. 35% new oak for ageing, barely perceptible even now, save for a remembrance of sweet charred cherry on the finish. Director David T Peabody, chief winemaker Julian Grounds.
Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Le Sol Syrah 2022Rich, supple and concentrated, this is from a heritage clone of Syrah brought to New Zealand in the 1840s, located in the stoniest parts of Gimblett Gravels. Takes its time to unfurl and unfold in the glass, with a steely tannic grip and high rose petal and gunsmoke aromatics, followed up with cumin, peach pit, sage and fennel. Deft and savoury, with a slow release that softens into creamy red fruits, and give plenty of time to relax and enjoy the finessed perfume that fills the glass. Where you can approach the Te Muna earlier, I strongly suggest allowing Le Sol four or five years to evolve in the bottle. Director David T Peabody, chief winemaker Julian Grounds, unfined, light filtration, 45% new oak for ageing.
Destiny Bay Waiheke Island Magna Praemia 2021Deep plum colour, medium to full intensity, this opens with intense aromatics of bitter chocolate tar, vanilla bean, savoury cassis and blueberry fruits, fresh acidities, tight through the finish. 50% new oak for ageing.
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South Africa
Tasting Notes
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Vin de Constance Constantia 2021Powerful apricot, chamomile, white tea, pineapple, preserved lemon, white flowers, gentle gunsmoke, intense, concentrated, vivid, just superb quality, spinning and stretching out on the finish. A wonderful vintage of Vin de Constance. Matthew Day winemaker, owners are Zdenek Bakala, Charmes Harman, Hubert de Boüard, Bruno Prats and Hans Astrom.
Klein Constantia Constantia Valley Clara Sauvignon Blanc 2023Preserved lemon, sage and dill, good weight through the palate puts focus on flavours that are are crisp and defined, with plenty of concentration. One of those rare white wines that tastes significantly better after being open 24 hours (kept in the fridge). There is real complexity on offer here, great quality. Plots range from 260 – 300m above sea level.
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Spain
Tasting Notes
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Matallana Ribero del Duero Vinedos de Matallana 2021Plum ruby red, nuanced and subtle with an emphasis on fragrance and lift, violet, peony, rose, finessed tannins, poise and intensity, raspberry and redcurrant fruit. Savoury, subtle, joyful. I love seeing what Telmo Rodriguez can do in Ribero del Duero, and so will you. He's been producing this wine since 1998, with the grapes from the northern area of Sotillo de la Ribera down to Pardilla in the south, 11 vineyards covering 21.5ha across five different villages. Native yeast fermentation.
Vivaltus Ribeira del Duero 2019Delicious, saline, tongue-scraping tannic grip, vertical rise through the palate and yet rooted to the spot, more about texture and taste than aromatics at this point, but promising so much unfurling over the next four to five years.Studded with sage and rosemary, muscular blackberry and spiced raspberry, fully recommend getting to know this evolving and surprising Ribeiro del Duero. Jean-Claude and Jeff Berrouet consultants, with winemaker Montxo Martinez and owners Marcos and Carlos Yllera. Vineyards at 750m to 1000m attitude from high quality plots across the region, from a selection of their own vines and some of local growers. Aged in 25% new oak, 10% amphora, and the rest in neutral barrels.
F. Algueira Ribeira Sacra Dolio 2020Medium intensity ruby red colour, floral rose bud, raspberry leaf, red cherry, dried herbs, black tea, lemongrass, intense and fragrant, a wine that appeals to lovers of intense flavours, a foodie wine because it is about texture and contrast, rather than being layered with sweet oak. Extremely juicy on the finish, mouthwatering and extremely drinkable, joyful, crammed with flavour and interest. Can be drunk soon, or will have a good ten years ageing in it. Just the second vintage on the Place de Bordeaux, and already it feels like it has found its place. A clear win for me. Granite, schist soils, native yeast fermentation in 500l barrels with stems, vineyards ranging from 200-600m in altitude. Just 6,668 bottles produced by winemaker Fernando Gonzalez Riveiro. I have tasted this a few times over the summer in different situations, and each time the biggest takeaway is that it is full of character and life, and is one that you will enjoy sharing with friends.
Real de Asua Rioja Real de Asua Carromaza 2021Charred sandalwood, taut fruit, eucalyptus and mint, with waves of cloves and rose petals. As it opens you suddenly get studded by anis, fennel, not overly marked by the oak, with a savoury edge that makes for a mouthwatering finish. 50% new oak for ageing, 225l barrels from Troncais, 3.63ph. Generous and accessible, this will age well but no need to wait more than a year or two to begin enjoying. The 2021 vintage saw an extended growing season in Rioja because of a great late September and October weather.
Yjar Rioja 2020Focused crystalline raspberry and cranberry fruit character, savoury, plenty of white pepper and fennel spice, intense, powerful, balanced, nuanced and gripping with a drawn out finish, providing more evidence of this compelling wine. 3.8ha of grapes, field blend. Native yeast fermentation, small size open top wooden vats, goblet trained high altitude vineyard, co-planted with massal selection. Foothills of Sierra de Tolono, 600-800m altitude. A challenging vintage that saw early rain and hail followed by a hot and dry summer, required intuition and rapid response - the kind of growing season that great winemakers rise to meet, as Telmo Rodriguez and Pablo Eguzkiza have done here. Harvest September 30 to October 7.
Vidal Balaguer Alicante Vidal Balaguer Selecciona 2021Clean and vivid red cherry fruit on the opening, this has poise and personality, but is swamped as it travels through the palate by overly dominant notes of tar, dried herbs, anis that give a bitter finish. Definite promise here, and should integrate further over ageing. Antoine Medeville consultant. Heavy bottle.
Vivaltus Ribeira del Duero La Fleur Vivaltus 2019This is a wine that I have really enjoyed seeing the progression in over the past five years, evolving towards its current subtle, nuanced and mouthwatering flavours. Made from largely old Tempranillo, a separate plot from the main Vivaltus, riven with spiced plum, capsicum, red pepper, really enjoyable, ready to drink, savoury with plenty of tannic grip. Jean-Claude and Jeff Berrouet consultants, with winemaker Montxo Martinez and owners Marcos and Carlos Yllera. Vineyards at 750m to 1000m attitude.
Albor de Masos Alicante 2021Savoury cranberry and raspberry, supple texture with a clear tannic grain that adds resistance, this has an enticing opening, with lift and succulence, a little soft on the finish but with charm and balance. Vidal Balaguer family owns this estate up at 560m near Alicante, Antoine Medeville consultant.
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USA
Tasting Notes
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Opus One Napa Valley 2021A classical vintage that perfectly suits the Opus style. Gorgeous vivid plum colour, sculpted, balanced, with a ton of lift, waves of rose petals, iris and peony, soft grilled cumin, sage and white pepper spice. Love the hidden power here and the supple slightly chalky tannins that are structured in their architecture with a precision and carved quality. Precise, layered and stretched out, a brilliant Opus, concentrated and yet delicate. Feels pared back and captures the spirit of early Opus, when it moved forward the conversation of what Napa could be. Michael Silacci director, 100% new oak for ageing extremely well integrated even now.
Favia Napa Valley Favia Cerro Sur 2021Andy Erickson and Annie Favia have deftly handled the drought of 2021, and although this is a relatively small and concentrated crop, it has sacrificed none of the nuance that you expect from this winemaking family. Love the aromatics curling out of the glass, beautiful gunsmoke character, and a clear textural feel to the tannins, a little chalky, allowing the grain, depth and florality to come through. Clear brightness and mint leaf through the mid palate, with blueberry and cassis fruits alongside waves of sage and cocoa bean. Wide V trellice system through the growing season that gives a lot of shade potential, and helps capture the acidity. 50% new oak for ageing, bottled unfiltered and unfined. First year back after 2019, with nothing bottled in 2020. Vines on volcanic and sandstone hillside sites just above Coombsville on the eastern side of the valley, heading into the Vaca mountains at 300m altitude.
Favia Coombsville Favia Coombsville 2021A wine that makes me so happy to be tasting, with nuance, depth of flavour, just a beautifully constructed glass of gunsmoke, sage, fennel, cut herbs, blackberry and raspberry fruits, muscular tannins that give grip without constriction. Andy Erikson and Annie Favia owners and winemakers. 50% new oak, unfiltered, unfined.
Chappellet Napa Valley Chappellet Pritchard Hill 2021Concentrated black cherry and cassis fruits on the opening, overlaid with violet and peony floral character, moves upwards through the palate as a juicy freshness heads in underneath the fruit, great quality, closing out with bitter cocoa bean, fennel and espresso character. Great quality, a long term wine that will reward patience. Heavy bottle.
Inglenook Rutherford Rubicon 2021Intense, powerful and concentrated, full of dark brambled fruits, with cocoa bean, smoked almonds, espresso, a series of tiny pulses of crushed rock minerality. Captures the power of Rutherford without sacrificing finesse or pleasure, just a gorgeous wine that is so easy to fall in love with. The muscular tannins need a few year before fully opening, and could be held back in bottle for a decade or more, or ensure a good long carafe. Todd Devincenzi director, Philippe Bascaules winemaker.
Dalle Valle Vineyards Napa Valley Maya 2021Kicks off with bitter black chocolate, touches of aniseed and fennel, intense and muscular, takes a beat before the aromatics begin to overlay the powerful black cherry and damson fruits, but they are here, subtle campfire smoke, cold ash, crushed rose petals and liqourice. Great stuff from winemaker Maya Dalle Valle, consultant winemaker Andy Erickson.
Vérité Sonoma Country La Muse 2021Majors on floral aromatics, with red roses, violet and peonies that curl out of the glass, edge of smoke, grilled turmeric and fennel, raspberry and redcurrant, full of charm and easy personality. You can get going on this within a few years but all three of these wines are more than able to withstand long ageing. Winemaker Pierre Seillan.
Vérité Sonoma Country Le Désir 2021The Cabernet Franc dominant bottling of the three Vérité wines, and it translates into a lean, fresh feel with touches of leather and fragrant peony, powerful but juicy, with a crunch of redcurrant and raspberry, and powerful tannins. This has kick and juice, and plenty of personality. Winemaker Pierre Seillan.
Paul Hobbs Nathan Coombs Coombsville Nathan Coombs Estate Cristinas Signature 2021The aromatics are closed at first, so give this time, allowing the savoury cassis, blueberry, squid ink and saline character to emerge. A joy to taste, and captures the feel of a Cabernet Sauvignon that intends to make you wait, not playing all its cards yet. As it opens, a floral character appears, along with briar patch, hedgerow, full of energy and lift, with great balance. First time on the Place for Paul Hobbs' 29ha Coombsville estate, 45% new oak, a vineyard he bought in 2012. 3.6ph. Tasted twice.
Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve 2021Excellent quality, full of flavour, balanced, cassis, liqourice and cocoa bean, espresso, sage, drawn out through the palate. A wonderful example of an intense, concentrated BV, full of estate signature. Tasted twice. 95% new oak for ageing, 3.64ph, harvest September 25 to October 13.
Inglenook Napa Valley Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon 2021Silky but muscular tannins, expands through the mid palate, showing intense black fruits, concentrated blackberry pie, grilled sandalwood, graphite and tar, great quality, grips through the palate, long ageing ahead. Todd Devincenzi director, Philippe Bascaules winemaker.
L'Aventure Paso Robles Willow Creek Estate Cuvée 2021Inky plum colour, medium to full intensity. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot dominant for the first 10 minutes in the glass, with sleek silky tannins, bilberry, blackcurrant, cocoa bean, espresso, fennel, then as it relaxes the floral red roses, white pepper and raspbery leaf of Syrah arrive. Beautiful concentration coupled with pummice stone minerality, will reward ageing but everything is in place to give pleasure straight away. Excellent quality. The 20th anniversary of the flagship Estate Cuvée - and the last one under this name, as it will be changing to Estate Reserve as of the 2022 vintage. 90% new oak for ageing. Winemaker Chloé Asseo.
Inglenook Napa Valley Inglenook Blancaneaux 2022An unusual style of white wine in Napa, a place where Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay tend to reign. Expect spice and gentle smoke on the opening here, star anise, white pepper, spiced pear and citrus, overlaid with fragrant white flowers. Great stuff. Winemaking and ageing in 60% stainless steel, 40% French oak, 22% new. Philippe Bascaules winemaking director.
Vérité Sonoma Country La Joie 2021Cocoa bean, fresh mint leaf, a ton of vivid dark fruit, bitter cherry, orange peel, liquorice, with a zip on the finish. A joyful example of what Cabernet Sauvignon can achieve in Sonoma. Pierre Seillan winemaker.
Favia Oakville Favia Oakville 2021Andy Erickson and Annie Favia's Oakville site, set at 300m elevation due east, with the red iron rich volcanic soil of Oakville. Rich depths of flavour are seamed here, laced through with dark chocolate and cocoa bean, olive pit and creamy black cherry and damson fruits, muscular tannins that keep things rooted through the mid palate, great expansion and lift on the finish. 50% new oak, unfiltered, unfined.
Appassionata Estate Oregon Appassionata Fortissimo 2013Soft ruby rose in colour, crushed rose petals on the nose, rose buds, redcurrant, so softly spoken and yet with concentration and lift. At the tertiary stage now 10 years old, forest floor and black truffles, gently stretching out on the finish, beautiful. Winemaker Timothy Malone, owner Ernie Loosen, Bob Bertheau former winemaker for Ste Michelle for almost two decades, and long term friend and collaborator with Ernie Loosen, now consultant.
Peter Michael Winery Knights Valley Les Pavots 2021Concentrated, luscious plum, greengage, garrigue, sage, bitter black chocolate, fennel, sharp mint blast on the finish. A relatively dry growing season without huge heat spikes, giving low yields with small berries and some of the highest phenolics since 2023. Robert Fiore winemaker since 2020, Luc Morlet consultant. All mountain fruit. First plantings of these vines in 1982, vineyard is planted on the slopes of Mount Saint Helena, 70% new French oak for ageing, hard to ignore that flash of heat. If you are going anywhere near this soon, think of at least a 6 hour carafe.
Quintessa Rutherford 2021Fabulous intensity and power without ever straying over the line, clear liquorice and cocoa bean, restrained and vivid blackberry, cassis and red cherry fruits overlaid with spiced cardamom and cumin. Grilled campfire smoke as it opens, this is a delicious vintage of Quintessa. Rebekah Wineburg winemaker.
Pym-Rae Napa Valley (Mount Veeder) 2020Fennel, anis, blackcurrant, mint leaf and cedar, cold campfire, charcoal, black chocolate and a long stretched out finish. You really start to see the project come into focus, and this is a successful vintage at Pym Rae even in a challenging year, so they should be very happy with what they have achieved. Vineyards at 600m altitude, dry-farmed with crop cover and no till to help retain moisture. It has now been five years since they took over and stopped all irrigation, and the balance in this wine suggests that the vines are beginning to respond and find their balance. Held back in bottle for 18 months before release. Tasted straight from bottle and with a carafe - I strongly suggest giving it plenty of air if planning to drink soon. Jerôme Ledit director. 70% new oak, with cement vats for fermentation.
L'Aventure Paso Robles Willow Creek Côte à Côte 2021Love the garrigue herbs on the nose, this captures the exuberance of Paso in its seductive vibrancy and easy pleasure, balancing it with freshly cut herbs, fennel and white pepper, liquorice, bilberry and raspberry fruits. Sculptured and textured, long ageing ahead. Fermented and aged in amphora, cement vats and 33% new French oak. There was no release last year, ensuring a little more time in bottle before release. A dry season, similar to 2019 and 2020, few extremes of heat except for two or three days during harvest, producing a lovely wine from the Asseo family.
Chappelet Napa Valley Signature Chappelet 2021Crushed raspberry, blackberry, rose petal and violets combine to make this an arresting opening, fragrant and characterful. As things settle in the glass, waves of cocoa bean, espresso and deeper cassis notes arrive. Great quality, with balance and a sense of easy welcome. Philip Titus winemaker 41ha of vines.
Morlet Family Vineyards Oakville Coeur de Vallée 2021The texture is luscious, with a cut of orange zest adding depth and balance, full of Napa character in terms of its muscularity and pleasure. Blueberry, damson, black cherry, rose bud, capsicum, olive paste, cocoa bean, espresso, tobacco, one-third in 600 litre french oak casks, the rest in small stainless steel tanks. A dry season, with rain only really falling in January and February, and although temperatures didn't climb too high, the wines have an intensity to them that is arresting and full of charm. Darnajou and Gauthier Frères. Luc and Jodie Morlet, always among the most thoughtful winemakers in Napa, own this exceptional vineyard that has the To Kalon creek running through it. Organic farming, bottled unfiltered and unfined.
Quintessa Sonoma County Illumination 2023Soft waves of preserved lemon, white nectarines, peach pit and rose petals. Great quality. Fruit sourced from 60% Napa County, 40% Sonoma County. Winemaker Rebekah Wineberg, consultant Michel Rolland.
Peter Michael Winery Oakville Au Paradis 2021Intense and concentrated, muscular with clear nuance, blackcurrant pastille, powerful tannic architecture, exceptionally mild growing season dry with small and concentrated berries. This is powerful and gourmet with cocoa bean and graphite, will benefit from time in the bottle. 60% new oak. 16ha estate in Oakville, with 11ha under vine, on the Vaca Mountain Range, so foothills fruit.
Opus One Napa Valley Overture 2021Vivid cherry red, medium intensity, pared back and moreish. Enticing charred plum and spiced black cherry, restrained and savoury, chalky tannins, good lift through the palate without losing the creaminess of the fruit, a dusting of cocoa powder adds a gourmet twist. 100% new oak for ageing. 2021 was a very dry vintage (2nd driest in history of Opus) but there were few extremes of temperature, and this is a delicious Overture. First one with a vintage on the label, after a few years of slowly moving that way. Impressive, easy to recommend.
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