AOC Médoc Blanc likely for 2025

by Valeria Tenison

The whites of AOC Médoc are on their way.

After months of discussions and consultations, the proposal for the specifications of a new AOC is almost ready and will be submitted to INAO at the beginning of 2023. Hélène Larrieu, the director of the Médoc ODG, expects it to be reviewed within 10-11 months, so the first vintage of the new-born appellation would, more realistically, be 2025 rather than 2024, as planned previously.

As per Larrieu, the appellation Médoc Blanc rules will include the traditional Bordeaux varieties and allow up to 30% of the so-called accessory grapes (“cépages accessoires”). The list of the cultivars has not yet been defined but with climate change in mind, a few drought-resistant, adaptable varieties might be included in the appellation cahier des charges winemaking rules. According to the proposal, wines will have to go through a period of barrel ageing on their lees and will not be released before March 31st of the year following the harvest. They are supposed to express intense tropical fruit aromas and nuances of stone fruits, honey and lemon-peel, supported by a creamy body. It is important to note that this new AOC would join the current Médoc, Haut-Médoc, and Listrac appellation without requiring a new geographic footprint, something that will help in implementation of the project.

White grapes occupy around 170 ha of the Médoc vineyards, producing roughly 800,000 bottles of wine – and there is a history of white in the region. In the 1930s, according to the historical documents, the production reached 15,000 hectolitres. A total of 75 producers make white wines in Médoc today. Around 70 will be eligible for AOC Médoc Blanc if they meet the ageing requirements and would be interested in labelling their wines as such. Currently, most white wines of Médoc are commercialised as AOC Bordeaux Blanc, including the iconic bottles produced by Château Mouton Rothschild (Aile d’Argent), Château Margaux (Pavillon Blanc) and Château Cos d’Estournel (Cos d’Estournel Blanc). The extremely rare white of Château Palmer is released as a Vin de France due to the inclusion of grapes that are not authorised by the specifications of AOC Bordeaux Blanc.

The ambition of the creators of the new appellation is to differentiate the white wines of Médoc from other whites produced in Bordeaux, hopefully adding extra value. In addition, as the global consumption of white wine is on the rise, more and more producers in Médoc might become interested in investing in white varieties to revive the forgotten tradition.

The sentiments of the producers towards the new appellation varies significantly. While some of the highest profile names, like Château Margaux, are somewhat cautious and have made no decisions yet about leaving AOC Bordeaux Blanc, others, like Château Loudenne, which claims to be the earliest producer of whites in the region, are enthusiastic supporters of the idea. Loïc Chanfreud, the director of Château Fonréaud that makes the renowned Le Cygne, thinks that currently there is a lack of typicity among the whites of Médoc. He highlights that though the area is smaller than the vast OC Bordeaux, it still covers 20,000 ha of extremely diverse terroirs, and the white of Listrac share very few similarities with the siblings of Margaux or Pauillac. In general, many producers prefer to see how the wind blows. If some Grand Cru Classés join the appellation, many will undoubtedly follow.