Book Review: Champagne Charlie, the Frenchman who taught Americans to love Champagne

By Evelyne Resnick

American born but French by heart, Don and Petie Kladstrup put their knowledge of the wine business to the service of an underrated Frenchman, Charles Heidsieck, who was instrumental in introducing Champagne to Americans.

While writing their previous opus, Champagne. How the world’s most glamorous wine triumphed over war and hard times and doing research in the region, the authors were intrigued by a recurring name, Charles Heidsieck, from the famed Heidsieck family. Later on, they heard that the family had some letters and journals from Charles and gained access to those precious documents. Their research gave birth to their latest book, Champagne Charlie, the Frenchman who taught Americans to love Champagne (Potomac Books, 2021).

As told by the Kladstrups, Charles’ life reads like a novel taking us from the vineyards of Champagne to Boston, New York, New Orleans, Denver and, back to Reims. Champagne Charlie is an adventurer as well as an astute businessman. In the 1850s France and America were peaceful and prosperous countries where a young adventurous and open-minded businessman could succeed. At the time, America was not considered a promising market for Champagne by most of the prestigious houses, such as Ruinart. Charles understood the potential of an untapped market for his young house, and set out to make it happen. At first, he took an exploratory trip to America, discovering the importance of advertising and personal contacts with potential amateurs. He settled the distribution of his brand and exported up to 300,000 bottles a year to America.

His American dream turned into a nightmare when French and American history hit his business. First, the Panic of 1857 and the first hints of civil war between the North and the Confederation impacted his sales. The dishonesty of his distributor Bayaud, who kept postponing his payments, heavily impacted his business. But Champagne Charlie kept selling his wine, mostly in the South. The Kladstrups describe with finesse the ambivalence of Champagne Charlie’s attitude towards the South and slavery: Charles was appalled by the fate of Black slaves, and yet at the same time he enjoyed the comforts of life on his friends’ plantations. Unlike the governments of France and England, adamant about staying neutral, he and a lot of businessmen wished the victory of the South for economic reasons.

His love and appreciation of American life did not spare him an arrest as a spy and four dreadful months in a New Orleans jail. Ruined and dishonoured, Champagne Charlie went back to France where he rebuilt his business. Still plagued by heavy debts, mostly due to the dishonesty of his American distributor, he was saved by a miracle: the younger brother of his Denver distributor left him a fortune because he felt ashamed that his brother never paid Charles his due and was responsible for his bankruptcy. The brother had made a fortune speculating on land during the gold rush to the West, and was childless. His legacy allowed Charles to pay his debts and restore his good name.

From dream to nightmare and back again, the life of Champagne Charlie is testimony to the intricacy of American and French history in the 19th century. Champagne Charlie was the first brand ambassador in the sense that we understand the term today. His legacy is the birth of Champagne as an international wine, both refined and festive. The Kladstrups’ book is a fascinating read on French and American history in tumultuous times for both countries while painting the portrait of an intriguing man.