Carême: how the world’s first celebrity chef brought First Growth Bordeaux to the French

Are you watching Carême on Apple TV+?

Wine lovers should get on board, as he’s an important figure not only in gastronomy – Antonin Carême is known as the father of French haute cuisine and the world’s first celebrity chef – but also in wine.

Born into poverty in late-18th century Paris, Carême rose to cook for Napoleon Bonaparte, Tsar Alexander of Russia, George IV as Prince Regent in London, Charles-Maurice de Talleyrand – and two Bordeaux First Growths.

Most famously, his final paid position as a chef, when he was already well-established in culinary circles – was with James and Betty Rothschild. They hired him as their private chef in 1823 from the British royal family, propelling them into becoming the most sought-after hosts in Paris, renowned for their lavish banquets and refined cuisine. Aware of his worth, they paid Carême a large salary and allowed him time off to write books – he published Le Cuisinier Parisien in 1828, one of at least six major books that he wrote on food and pastry, and the last one before his five-volume L’art de la cuisine française that was released with its first volume in 1833.

Staying with the family until the early 1830s, the Soufflé Rothschild was created by Carême for James Mayer Rothschild, the man who would go on to buy Château Lafite in 1868. This souflée, made with candied fruit that had been macerated in Danziger Goldwasser, kirsch, cognac or Grand Marnier, was later a staple on the menu at Le Gavroche, the iconic Mayfair restaurant owned by brothers Albert and Michel Roux. They learnt the recipe while working as private chefs for the Rothschilds in London (Albert also worked with the Cazelets, who trained the Queen Mother’s horses, another link to Carême who worked for the Prince Regent in London before returning to Paris).

Less known is that earlier in Carême’s career (in fact around the time that the Apple+ series is set) he came into close contact with another Bordeaux First Growth – almost certainly preparing feasts in its kitchens while working as a chef for Charles-Maurice de Talleyrand, foreign minister under Napoleon.

Talleyrand, who firmly believed in gastronomic diplomacy, bought Château Haut-Brion in 1801, keeping it until 1804, and his ownership of Haut-Brion is understood to have been key in seeing the First Growths rise in prominence with the elites of French politics who were more used to drinking Burgundy and Champagne.

During the time of his ownership, he was key to the negotiations for the Louisiana Purchase, working alongside the new President of the United States, Thomas Jefferson – himself a fan and former visitor of Haut-Brion.

Later in 1814, Talleyrand was host and diplomat at The Congress of Vienna, held to plan the future of Europe following the end of the Napoleonic wars. Through it, Talleyrand showed his political survival instincts, and how he had managed to survive the reign of Louis XVI, the revolution and reign of terror, the Directory, the rule of Napoleon, and the reigns of both Louis XVIII and Louis Philippe.

Alongside him, and key to his strategy and survival, was Antonin Carême. On the eve of their departure to Vienna, Talleyrand wrote to King Louis XVIII,