Guide to 2023 En Primeur Notes and Scoring

More than 5,000 wine professionals of 70 different nationalities were in Bordeaux over the past few weeks to discover the 2023 vintage, discovering a vintage that was never going to have the wow factor of 2022, but is a reminder that Bordeaux excels in effortless construction and producing well balanced wines that are made to delight over the long term. Not everywhere has succeeded, but there are hundreds of bottles that are worth tracking down, and that you will be thrilled to discover.

There is an enjoyable Left Bank-Right Bank distinction in this vintage, that was sometimes less clear in 2022 with the overall ripeness of the fruits. Last year, almost every wine was extremely deeply coloured, whatever the terroir, and whether 1st wine or 2nd wine. It gave an immediately impressive look to the wines, but there was less distinction between appellations and estates – personally I welcome a return to a more nuanced, terroir and estate-driven feel to the wines. Also worth noting in 2023 that you are going to find some wonderful white wines, both dry and sweet.

In terms of where it sits within the legendary Bordeaux years, I would say that it is not up there with 2016 or 2009/2010 for sure – I don’t think the 2020s have yet had the vintage of the decade, at least I hope not, because as I have said I have reservations over the 2022. I don’t think this year will be a huge commercial success, whatever the price drops may be, but I do think it is one that people will keep rediscovering, and that will bring the kind of pleasure that vintages like 2001 have done over the decades.

In many ways I feel that 2023 is the vintage that 2021 desperately wished to be. There are balanced alcohols almost everywhere, particularly on the Left Bank, with many clocking in at around 13-13.5%abv, but where in 2021 they lacked structure and were in some cases dilute, here the long ripening (when not impacted by mildew or heat spikes according to terroir) gave beautifully ripe fruits, plenty of density through the palate and firm tannic architecture allowing for wines that will undoubtedly age well.

In a vintage like 2023, there is a big difference between those that have succeeded, and those who have struggled, so I hope that by tasting around 800 wines from across the region, I can really steer you to the right bottles.

To set the scene for the vintage, you can find an overview of vintage conditions in the different appellations and yields.

To see all my 2023 scores in one place, in one easy list, simply write ‘2023’ vintage on the wine search page, or click here.

You can also look in detail at the wines split into their respective geographic location, so:

• Left Bank including Pessac Léognan, Graves, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Superieur, Médoc, Haut-Médoc, St Estèphe, St Julien, Pauillac and Margaux.
• Right Bank including St Emilion, St Emilion Grand Cru, Pomerol, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Superieur, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux.
• Whites including Sauternes, Barsac, Pessac Léognan, Graves, Bordeaux Blanc, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux.

I have added particularly notable changes within the specific regional reports, but a full What’s New in the Region is also covered separately here (now free to read).

The full vintage report from Professors Axel Marchal, Valerie Lavigne and team at the ISVV is always interesting to read – this is the English language version.

Scoring system
This report covers more than 800 wines tasted over the past month, and you will find plenty of high scores. Always bear in mind that for me anything at 94 points or higher, you can truly feel confident in buying. My highest scores in 2023 were 98-100 points for four wines, all on the Left Bank (Mouton, Lafite, Pontet and Haut-Brion), which means three in Pauillac and one in Pessac Léognan. Across the region I have also given four 98 points on the Right Bank, and six on the Left Bank. Whites wines have been more consistently successful this year than they were last year, with the highest points of 98 points awarded to two wines, and three 97s.

In comparison the 2022 vintage favoured more Right Bank than Left Bank wines, with seven reds awarded potential 100 points (Château Ausone, Château Belair-Monange, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Beausejour Duffau-Lagarosse, Château Lafleur and Château Cheval Blanc) together with a highest score of 96 points for three white wines (Château Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, Pavillon Blanc and Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc), indicating that the concentrated dry heat of 2022 saw struggles for full acidity with whites.

One thing to note when reading my scores. I only give ranges with my scoring system for the potential 100 points during En Primeur (meaning 98-100). Other than that, I continue to give single point scores. That makes me an outlier from other critics, but I believe it is more helpful for consumers. A range of 92-95+, for example, which I see regularly elsewhere, is simply not helpful when it comes to deciding whether or not to make an En Primeur purchase. Too wide a range and it’s meaningless, too narrow and I might as well make a decision. Where there is a likelihood of upscoring in bottle, I mention it in the tasting note.

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