In Search of Wine: Bordeaux in 1929

by Alexandra Gray de Walden

As the 2024 harvest begins in Bordeaux, we look into the archives of Berry Bros. & Rudd in London, to discover the Bordeaux of a century ago, at the start of the 1929 harvest.

These photographs were taken during a buying trip by Charles Walter Berry, a family partner at Berry Bros. & Rudd for 43 years, and a prolific wine writer. He made the journey to Bordeaux as the latest harvest was being brought into the cellar, undertaking the kind of hands-on exploration of a wine region that was fairly unusual at the time – in fact he was one of the first British wine merchants to travel abroad to select fine wines.

The photographs we are reproducing below come from an album in his personal collection. They are a beautiful snapshot of time as he made his way through Bordeaux, visiting châteaux and sampling the delights of the vintage.

Known as Walter, Charles Walter Berry had followed his father Percy into the family business in the 1880s. When Percy died in 1897, Walter and his second-cousin Francis became custodians of Berry Bros. & Co. – as it then was. In the second edition of the history book Berry Bros. & Rudd, Walter’s drinking tastes are described as “good wine, more good wine and then Cognac.”

It goes on to say that despite his shyness, Walter was an incredible salesman. He was also a prolific writer and wrote numerous reports of his trips abroad including his memoir of a 1935 buying trip called In Search of Wine. His book Berry: A Miscellany of Wine, brings many of his autobiographical wine tales together. It includes such delightful quotes as “I felt in the mood for a bottle of good Burgundy. Such moods should not be allowed to pass.”

Walter’s accounts of his trips abroad and, especially, his photographs are some of the earliest examples of the company sharing the stories behind the bottles with customers.

Starting with “Vintaging at Ch. Lafite”, we see eight or so vineyard workers laboriously making their way up rows of vines harvesting grapes. They pick healthy, ripe grapes before tossing them over their shoulders into hoppers on their backs – as be-hatted gentlemen look on.

In a 1959 issue of Berrys’ No.3 Magazine, a beautifully written article introduces the Bordeaux region of Médoc – home to Château Lafite (specifically, in Pauillac). The writer refers to the “Devoted cultivation of soil and vine” there and we can see that each row of vines perfectly mirrors its neighbour in height and width, painstakingly cared for by hand.

Elsewhere in Pauillac, “The gathering at Pontet-Canet” below sees a lone vineyard worker bent double with the crown of their head presented to the camera. They are armed with a pair of secateurs and a small trug sitting underneath the green-leaf canopy. This must have been back-breaking work, particularly with the vines trained so low. In the background, three capped colleagues look on as their image is immortalised on film.

Two further photographs are labelled “At Pontet-Canet”. In one is a cart drawn by oxen with vineyard workers aboard. The next photograph sees a first floor opening in the winery with the oxen and cart waiting patiently below. A pulley system lifts huge buckets of grapes as awaiting winery workers guide them in. Château Pontet-Canet is still notable today for its use of animals, particularly horses, in the vineyards.

Our next photograph depicts “Stéphane Cruse at Lacoste in Sauternes” with what looks like Walter to the right. Both gentlemen stand hat-in-hand, in front of rows of perfectly manicured vines. They each sport the stiff, exaggerated shirt collar of the day and delightful pocket squares. While château owners still take pride in their appearance, walking through vineyards in a three-piece suit is no longer a pre-requisite.

The photograph of, I think, Walter “At St Emilion” sees him with a companion. They are each shaking hands and brandishing a healthy-looking glass of Claret. Again, both gentlemen are clad in heavy, woollen, three-piece suits; neither looks too uncomfortable for it. Without additional notes, I wondered if this photograph could be linked with the Jurade. This St Emilion-based organisation dates from 1199 when King John of England (“Jean Sans-Terre” to the French) created a charter giving special rights to the town. As well as monitoring local social and economic affairs, the Jurade paid particular attention to the protection and reputation of the town’s wines.

In June 1957, at the ceremony of Intronisation, Anthony Berry – son of Francis and then-Berry Bros. & Rudd Chairman – was inaugurated as a Prud’homme de la Jurade. Although the photograph of Walter and companion at St Emilion predates Anthony’s inauguration, I like to think they may be discussing the intricacies of that mysterious organisation.

My favourite photograph from this collection sees Walter (third from left) standing with three other men in a vineyard. As an amateur historian, I am ever grateful to our predecessors who had the foresight to write on photographs or give them captions, explaining who was who, where the photograph was taken and when. There is nothing more frustrating than knowing that you will never know.

“Hurrah” then for Walter Berry who has helpfully denoted that the three gentlemen accompanying him in this photograph are “GGB, J Delamain, and Daniel Delamain”. I suspect that GGB is Francis Berry’s son, George. Tragically, George was killed during the Second World War in 1941, leading a charge in North Africa.

Images taken from Berry Bros. & Rudd archives, reproduced with thanks, and originally posted on their site. Alexandra Gray de Walden is a Copywriter at Berry Bros. & Rudd, where she regularly covers stories from the company’s lengthy history.