News Digest January 2025

by Valeria Tenison

The final week of January 2025 has been marked by the shocking news of the death of former Bordeaux mayor Nicolas Florian, at the age of just 55, following a stroke. Florian was the successor of longterm mayor Alain Juppé, taking over from him as mayor of the city from 2019 when Juppé headed up to Paris to join the Conseil Constitutionnel. The two men had worked alongside each other at the town hall since 2014, notably for the local wine industry on projects such as the Cité du Vin. Although Florian was beaten in the 2020 elections by current Bordeaux mayor Pierre Hurmic, he was planning to stand again in next year’s elections.

More difficult news at the annual general meeting (AGM) of the Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) on December 16, 2024, was marked by tensions and protests from the Confédération Paysanne, demanding the council’s dissolution. Protesters accused the CIVB of failing to manage the ongoing crisis in the Bordeaux wine industry, which has persisted since 2017. Challenges include falling wine prices, bankruptcies, and dissatisfaction over the organisation’s handling of finances and regulatory roles. CIVB Vice-President Bernard Farges defended the council, noting its limited capacity to act without state or EU support. Despite financial struggles, the CIVB has allocated €13.5 million of its €26.7 million budget for 2025 to marketing and communication, aiming to attract younger consumers, mainly through social media.

Additionally, the profitability of vineyards in Bordeaux has sharply declined, with an average reduction of 210% in earnings before tax for the region, according to the latest statistics. This dramatic downturn is part of a broader trend across French wine-growing areas, where similar financial struggles occur. The decrease is mainly attributed to the challenging 2023 vintage, marked by low yields and high production costs, which have worsened wine producers’ already tricky economic climate. As recently estimated by the CIVB, a decrease of 1hl/ha in yield results in a 2% increase in production costs. One proposed solution is forming a Producer Organisation (OP) to unify 70-80% of Bordeaux AOC bulk wine volumes, enabling price stabilisation and collective commercial strategies. However, resistance from independent winemakers over concerns about subsidies and cooperative dominance persists.

AOC Bordeaux is facing significant challenges as it prepares to lose up to half of its volume due to vineyard pulls. This could reduce the vineyard’s surface area to 40,000 hectares in 2025, down from 59,000 hectares in 2011, with a projected harvest of around 1.7 million hectolitres per year (compared to 3.38 million in 2011). As a result, the financial situation of its control body, the Organisme de Défense et de Gestion (ODG), is becoming precarious. With a shrinking volume and revenue, the ODG is questioning its future operations and considering financial adjustments, including potential increases in membership fees or cuts to its services, such as technical advice, union activities, and promotion. A decision on these matters will be made in 2025.

Amid these difficulties, crémants de Bordeaux are experiencing a surge in popularity. With annual production reaching 15 million bottles and vineyard areas increasing by 280% over the past decade to 1,800 hectares, they are becoming a festive and year-round choice. Made using the same traditional method as Champagne, crémants de Bordeaux offer excellent value, ranging from €8 to €18. About 70% of Bordeaux crémants are sold domestically, with Germany and the United States being the largest export markets. Despite challenges such as potential tariff increases, the growing demand for these sparkling wines provides a rare bright spot amid Bordeaux’s broader wine industry struggles.

Meanwhile, the Castel Group, France’s leading wine and beer company, has firmly denied rumours that it is up for sale. Despite being discreet, the group has responded to ongoing speculations regarding its future and the purchasing of bulk wine. Founded in 1949 and still family-owned, Castel remains a major player in the global wine market, ranking as the top wine operator in France and third worldwide. The group owns 20 vineyards across France, including significant holdings in Bordeaux, and operates various wine brands and wine merchants like Barton & Guestier.

In response to climate change, 63 historic grape varieties have been identified from Bordeaux’s oldest vineyards, and will be brought together to study their potential adaptation to climate change and other modern challenges facing the wine industry. These varieties, many originating from the Pyrenees foothills, include well-known grapes like Colombard, Muscadelle, and Petit Verdot, as well as rare and forgotten varieties such as Prunelard and Tressot. The project, led by Ronan Jehanno with funding from the CIVB, involves planting these varieties in a new clonal diversity conservatory at Château Dillon by 2026. The conservatory aims to discover climate-resistant varieties and support research on modern issues, such as resistance to grapevine diseases.

Innovation is also evident at Château La Fleur Morange, a Grand Cru Classé from Saint-Émilion, that has launched two unique white wine cuvées infused with Tahitian vanilla, created in collaboration with a Polynesian vanilla grower. One cuvée, Te Ata, features infused vanilla, while the other, Te Hono, includes a whole vanilla pod in the bottle. Initially targeting the Tahitian market, the first 3,000 bottles sold out quickly, and 6,000 more are in production. Developing the wines took three years of experimentation to achieve a natural balance between the wine and vanilla without artificial additives. The project began as a lighthearted idea between the Julien family, owners of the château, and their Tahitian distributors. The wines pair well with Polynesian cuisine and have gained notable success. They may expand to broader markets, including French overseas territories and beyond. See main image for the label.

Art continues to intersect with Bordeaux wines, as Château Siran released the 2022 vintage, featuring artwork by British artist Damian Elwes. This label pays tribute to Queen Elizabeth II, commemorating her Platinum Jubilee and her passing in 2022. Elwes, who has a personal connection to the Queen through his childhood home near Windsor, created the piece titled “Sunlight on the Thames near Windsor,” which captures the sunlight reflecting on the Thames, echoing the iconic profile of the Queen. The winery has previously worked with renowned artists like Ben, Folon, and Zao Wou-Ki.

Château Figeac has also unveiled a special label for its 2022 vintage, celebrating its new status as Premier Grand Cru Classé A of Saint-Émilion. The new label features a bold “A” alongside the “1er Grand Cru Classé” designation. Additionally, there is a handwritten banner reading “Notre premier millésime en 1ᵉʳ Grand Cru Classé “A” – Joie et fierté!” (“Our first vintage as 1er Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ – Joy and pride!”, signed by Madame Manoncourt.

On the local front, the city of Bordeaux is launching a new initiative to boost the presence of Bordeaux wines in city restaurants. Starting in spring 2025, a “Bordeaux wines by the glass” campaign will offer three wines (red, white, and rosé) at an accessible price in restaurants, bars, and hotels across the city, with at least one organic wine included. The initiative is backed by a €30,000 subsidy from the Bordeaux City Council, part of a larger €70,000 initiative involving the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB), the Chamber of Commerce, and the Union of Hospitality Professionals (UMIH). The goal is to increase the number of participating establishments from 50 to 200, with the requirement that 50% of their wine offerings be from Bordeaux.

Further celebrating Bordeaux’s wines, Star Wine List, the guide to great wine bars and restaurants worldwide, announced the finalists of the Best Bordeaux Wine List in France category, sponsored by Château de Pez. The list included 11 establishments across the country: seven in Paris (Drouant, La Clarence, Le George, Le Petit Sommelier, Le Taillevent, Les 110 de Taillevent, Restaurant Espandon), one in Èze (Château de la Chèvre d’Or), one in Reims (Le Parc at Domaine Les Crayères) and two in Bordeaux area (Aux Quatre Coins du Vin in Bordeaux and Vignobles et Châteaux Wine Bar in Saint-Emilion). The restaurants were selected by a prominent judging panel comprising Master Sommelier Katherina Larsen-Robert, ASI Second-Best Sommelier of the World 2019 and 2023 Nina Jensen, Best Sommelier of France 2018 Pascaline Lepeltier and wine writer and radio presenter Jérôme Gagnez. The absolute winners of the second Star Wine List of the Year France will be announced on Monday, February 10, at Wine Paris 2025.

Lastly, the cork collection initiative in Gironde has had an outstanding year in 2024, surpassing all previous records. With 85 tons of corks collected and a donation of €40,000 for cancer research, this achievement is a significant milestone. The effort has been supported by many participants, including volunteers, individuals, wine merchants, restaurateurs, and wineries. The funds raised will be donated to the Bergonié Institute in Bordeaux at the start of 2025, continuing the fight against cancer. This success follows a record-breaking 2023, where 70 tons of corks were collected, raising €27,400.

by Valeria Tenison

Sources: Vitisphere, Sud-Ouest, Star Wine List