News Digest: March 2025

by Valeria Tenison

March has been full of tension and uncertainty for the French wine and spirits industry. The recent announcement by Donald Trump of a potential 200% tariff increase on European imports to the U.S. has sent shockwaves through the sector. As a French customs report recently revealed, in 2024, the United States surpassed China as Bordeaux’s largest export market, with exports totalling €340 million and for French wines and spirits overall (€3.8 billion in 2024), so the prospect of higher tariffs raises concerns. Industry professionals fear that escalating prices could drive consumers away, further reducing sales. The 25% tariff imposed during Trump’s first term already cost the wine sector an estimated €600 million, prompting Bordeaux exporters to increase shipments in anticipation of potential new tariffs. As things stand the EU has delayed its own pending tariffs against the US whiskey to mid-April, and the industry waits to see if an agreement can be reached to avert disaster.

But it’s not just the international market causing concerns. Locally, Lidl continues to undercut production costs, offering AOC Bordeaux 2023 at an incredible €1.99 per bottle with a 4+2 deal. Despite slight price increases, these wines remain well below the break-even costs for producers. Winemakers and industry representatives are crying foul, accusing the discounter of devaluing wine and pressuring producers. While Lidl argues that its prices reflect the broader market, the debate rages on, with bulk wine prices at unsustainable levels.

In brighter news, some Bordeaux estates are making bold moves. At Château Lascombes in Margaux, Axel Heinz (formerly of Ornellaia and Masseto) is launching “La Côte Lascombes”, a Merlot-only wine from the 2022 vintage, priced at around €180 — twice the cost of the estate’s Grand Vin. Heinz, who took over in 2023, sees this as part of a broader strategy to revitalise the estate. Another interesting is due at Château Montrose, called Dix Hectares, from a specific 10ha plot of vines (among its 125ha) facing the river Garonne. We may have to wait some time for this to arrive in bottle – but you can follow progress here.

Further down the Gironde, Château Latour has finally released its much-anticipated 2016 vintage, a year later than expected. The Grand Vin, a blend of 92.9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7.1% Merlot, is priced at €470 ex-château—a competitive 22.7% discount compared to the similarly-qualitative 2010 vintage, with 100 points given on this site. Finally, Château Brane-Cantenac has inaugurated its new 500 m² eco-friendly cellar, emphasising sustainability and innovation. The estate will also host the Estivales de Musique en Médoc in July. And over in the UK, the Commanderie de Bordeaux has opened its latest chapter, in Liverpool. The Commanderie de Bordeaux dates back to 1952 and is a global network of wine enthusiasts and professionals dedicated to promoting and educating people about the wines of the Bordeaux region, acting as ‘embassies’ for Bordeaux wine around the world. Manchester received its Charter in March 1988, and today there are 103 embassies around the world. The Liverpool presentation was held at The Art School restaurant, with food curated by Paul Askew, the restaurant’s chef patron, and the new Maitre De La Commanderie de Bordeaux à Liverpool with Bill Addy as the Vice-Maitre De La Commanderie de Bordeaux à Liverpool.

On corporate news, Domaine Clarence Dillon has announced the appointment of Julien Morel as Group CEO, effective April 1st. Julien brings over 16 years of experience at Moët Hennessy and will oversee operations at the prestigious estates of Château Haut-Brion, Château La Mission Haut-Brion, and Château Quintus, among other ventures. His appointment comes as the company celebrates its 90th anniversary. Across in Calfiornia, Opus One Winery, which successfully sells its wines through La Place de Bordeaux and is 50% owned by the Rothschild family of Mouton Rothschild, has appointed Meghan Zobeck as its first-ever Director of Winemaking. Zobeck (see main photo above) will oversee all winemaking activities, while current winemaker Michael Silacci will remain in place, responsible for final approval of all blending, harvest, and operational activities.

On the legal front, a Bordeaux court has dismissed the defamation case brought by France’s largest AOC wine producer, Tutiac, against the TV show “Complément d’Enquête” over allegations of large-scale wine fraud. The case was dismissed on procedural grounds, but Tutiac is appealing the decision, with the dispute stemming from a report that accused the company of mislabeling Spanish wines as French.

Worth looking out for “Le Dernier Pape” (The Last Pope), a documentary about the life of 88 year old Bernard Magrez, one of the most influential figures in the wine industry, will be released on Prime Video on April 15th. The 76-minute film chronicles Magrez’s rise from a troubled childhood to building a global wine empire, often at the cost of personal relationships.

April is almost there, and we are already getting ready for the coming 2024 Bordeaux En Primeur Campaign, which is shaping up to be an intriguing one, marked by the complex, challenging, and ultimately promising 2024 vintage. While expectations are low — no one is claiming it to be a vintage of the century — the 2024 Bordeaux offers an opportunity for buyers, with prices likely to be more accessible compared to recent years. Bordeaux’s top estates are already adjusting their strategies as the campaign approaches. The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) and the 1855 Classified Growths focus on early communication about the qualities of the 2024 vintage, highlighting its fruit-forward character and balance. The new UGCB president François-Xavier Maroteaux emphasises the need to adapt the approach to attract younger consumers, shifting from technical discussions to more enjoyable, accessible event experiences. Despite these efforts to communicate the vintage’s merits, many buyers seek significant price reductions. Some industry professionals call for a drastic decrease in the number of wines offered during the primeur week to spark renewed interest.

Sources: Sud Ouest, Vitisphere, Terre de Vins, LVMH, Domaine Clarence Dillon, Opus One Winery, Vino-Joy

Main photography credit: Christoffer Lomfors