News Digest: May 2025

by Valeria Tenison

May brought both relief and anxiety to Bordeaux’s winegrowers. Vineyards across the region escaped spring frost for the first time in four years—a welcome reprieve that raised hopes for a prolific vintage. However, optimism was short-lived for parts of the region. On May 10, violent hailstorms swept through southern Gironde, particularly around Langon, hitting leaves and the first flowers. The damage was severe in some parcels, with growers fearing complete crop loss. The Chamber of Agriculture promptly called on affected producers to report their losses, as the local industry braces for the economic impact.

Meanwhile, Bordeaux’s 2024 En primeur campaign has launched under pressure, with top châteaux slashing prices by up to 30% to attract buyers in a hesitant global market. Among the first growths, Mouton Rothschild released its 2024 at €252 ex-négociant—a 22% drop—making it the cheapest vintage on the market and one of the most interesting buys of the campaign. Lafite Rothschild followed suit at €288, down 27%. Other prominent estates followed a similar trend: Cos d’Estournel cut its price by 26% to €84, Château Léoville Las Cases by 30% to €138, and Cheval Blanc by 28% to €276 ex-négociant.

Adding further perspective, independent consultancy Wine Services published aggregated scores for 2024 wines based on the notes of 21 respected critics. Lafleur, Les Carmes Haut-Brion, and L’Église Clinet achieved the highest marks among the reds, while La Mission Haut-Brion, Smith Haut Lafitte, and Haut-Brion shone among the whites – all reflecting notes given on this site.

Beyond the tasting rooms, Bordeaux made an appearance at one of the year’s most high-profile celebrations. Football icon David Beckham marked his 50th birthday with a visit to Bordeaux, arriving by private jet for an afternoon in the vineyards. Later, he was spotted dining at the LVMH-owned Parisian brasserie L’Ami Louis with a magnum of 2004 Petrus and a bottle of Château Cheval Blanc on the table, which might give some clues as to where he visited earlier in the day.

Behind the glamour, structural challenges persist. According to new data from SAFER, the vineyard land market in Bordeaux and its surrounding areas continued to deteriorate in 2024, reaching its lowest price levels since 2011. In Gironde, prices for AOC-designated vineyard land fell by 18%, with the average hectare now selling for €112,500—though this average hides wide disparities. Appellations like Bordeaux and Côtes-de-Bordeaux are now trading at just €8,000 per hectare, reflecting continued oversupply and weak demand. Even mid-range and premium appellations are affected: land in Saint-Émilion has dropped by 7%. Margaux (€1.4 million/ha) and Pauillac (€2.5 million/ha) are also seeing their prices soften, albeit from very high levels. While top terroirs remain valuable, they are no longer immune to the broader market correction.

In the luxury segment, Bernard Magrez, the owner of four Grands Crus Classés, has put his iconic Bordeaux mansion, La Grande Maison, on the market for €6 million, fueling speculation about changes within his wine empire. Meanwhile, another wine empire—LVMH, which owns Château d’Yquem and Château Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux—announced a 10% workforce reduction at Moët Hennessy, citing slower demand and the need to adapt to shifting market conditions. This is expected to mean between 1,000-1,2000 jobs at risk.

On the global fine wine scene, one of the most prestigious wine collections in the world is heading to auction this June, as billionaire Bill Koch puts his legendary cellar up for sale through Christie’s. The sale features an extraordinary selection of Bordeaux wines, including historic vintages like the 1900 Château Lafite Rothschild and a six-bottle lot of the legendary 1945 Mouton Rothschild. Other highlights include the 1982 Château Lafleur, expected to fetch between US$26,000 and US$38,000, and rare magnums of 1990 Pétrus. Koch, known for his crusade against wine fraud after falling victim to counterfeit bottles himself, has ensured every wine in the collection has been meticulously authenticated.

Amidst all the news, Bordeaux found a reason to cheer on the sporting front. The city’s beloved rugby team, UBB (Union Bordeaux Bègles), clinched a hard-fought victory over Northampton in the final of the European Rugby Champions Cup on May 24, bringing joy and celebration to the city—hopefully with a glass of local wine in hand!

Sources: Vitisphere, Sud-Ouest, Terres de Vins, The Drinks Business, Wine-Searcher, Wine Services