News Digest November 2024

by Valeria Tenison

The footprint of Bordeaux’s vineyard area is expected to fall below 100,000 hectares (ha) by the end of 2024. This decline follows years of difficulties, including the implementation of a vine pull-out programme. As of 2023, the vineyard covers 103,000ha, down from 115,000ha in 2019, and by the end of 2024, the area is predicted to shrink further. The Bordeaux vine removal plan, offering compensation of €6,000 per hectare, aims to address overproduction and sustainability issues. Divided into two phases, the plan has seen 8,414ha requested for removal and 5,059ha already processed. Despite these changes, the Gironde remains France’s leading wine-growing department, ahead of Hérault and Aude.

On the topic of challenges, a small group of about 30 winemakers from the collective Viti 33 demonstrated at the headquarters of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur Syndicate on November 14th. The protest, while modest in size, reflected growing frustration over the economic crisis in the Bordeaux wine industry. Many winemakers are struggling financially, with some vineyards facing liquidation or forced vine removal, amounting to approximately 7,000ha in the Entre-Deux-Mers region alone. The protesters presented 14 demands, focusing on a fairer distribution of the Cotisation Volontaire Obligatoire (CVO, obligatory contribution to all members of a wine interprofession), proposing a 3.5% levy on the average price per tonneau for all wine volumes traded. They also called for a minimum price per tonneau and the establishment of a professional organisation to protect small producers.

Meanwhile, a legal case has highlighted the financial complexities of wine collecting. A wine collector was fined €71,240 for undeclared sales of 60 bottles of Petrus, earning €72,780 in profit between 2012 and 2015. The French tax authorities deemed the activity an “unreported commercial operation.” The collector’s lawyer, Matthieu Rouve, plans to appeal to the Conseil d’État, arguing that his client is a casual collector, not a professional wine dealer. This case underscores how the frequency and scale of transactions can classify occasional sales as professional activities. Similar rulings have fined individuals who profited significantly from wine resales without declaring them, triggering penalties of up to 80% of the VAT owed and extended tax assessment periods.

In another legal update, the Bordeaux Court of Appeal recently overturned a prior ruling, this time allowing Domaines Peyronie to continue using the names Château Pauillac (see main image) and Château Haut-Pauillac for their wines. This decision marked a setback for the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) and the Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB), which had initially argued that the names were misleading under appellation laws. The court ruled that the INAO and CIVB’s legal challenge was invalid due to the expiration of the statutory limitation period. However, the use of the trademark “Harmonie de Château Pauillac” was invalidated as it was deemed likely to mislead consumers. The Peyronie family, with a three-century history in the Médoc region, defended the names as reflecting their property’s legacy and terroir.

The iconic Bordeaux wine guide, Bordeaux et ses vins, will make a much-anticipated return with its 20th edition in spring 2026. Published by Éditions Féret under new leadership, this edition promises to modernise its exhaustive coverage of Bordeaux’s wine industry. The previous edition, published in 2014, spanned nearly 2,000 pages with 11,000 entries, including 5,000 estates and négociants. The upcoming guide will feature a refreshed design, updated expert contributions, and new sections on appellations, market trends, and environmental issues. Éditions Féret has also embraced digital transformation, launching an online platform where 500 Bordeaux estates have subscribed for inclusion in both the guide and its digital content. Priced at around €125, the printed version of guide is expected to be updated every three to four years.

In another development, Château Beauséjour in Saint-Émilion has unveiled a state-of-the-art winery tailored to its 6.8ha limestone plateau vineyard. Acquired in 2021 by the Courtin family, owners of the Clarins group, and led by co-owner and winemaker Joséphine Duffau-Lagarrosse, the estate has undergone three years of planning and seven months of construction. The new facility features 16 fermentation tanks, 14 of which are cement, reflecting the vineyard’s intra-parcel diversity and designed for gentle, controlled extraction. Architectural highlights include a restored building façade, a spiral staircase, and a panoramic window offering vineyard views. Adding an artistic touch, the tanks are adorned with a fresco depicting the vineyard panorama, blending functionality with creativity.

On the charitable front, the 22nd annual auction of fine Bordeaux wines raised over €130,000 for the Banque Alimentaire de Gironde. Held in early November, the event featured 190 lots, including prestigious labels such as Petrus, and Margaux. Although this year’s total was slightly lower than last year’s €180,000, the auction proceeds still account for nearly 10% of the Food Bank’s annual budget. These funds are increasingly used to purchase essential food items, as traditional donations from supermarkets and retailers decline. The number of Food Bank beneficiaries has risen sharply, reaching 22,800 in 2023, an increase of 800 from the previous year.

Meanwhile, the Cruse-Lorenzetti wine estates are undergoing significant reorganisation. Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, who joined the group in 2008 and became director of Lilian Ladouys and Pédesclaux in 2013, has been appointed director of Château Lafon-Rochet, acquired in 2021 by Jacky Lorenzetti. At the same time, Christophe Congé transitions from his role as director of Lafon-Rochet to lead Pédesclaux. At the beginning of 2024, Châteaux Lafon-Rochet and Lilian Ladouys, now certified organic, merged into a single legal structure, pooling resources to further improve wine quality.

Adding to Bordeaux’s accolades, three of its estates were included in the World’s Best Vineyards list. Château Smith Haut Lafitte, ranked 7th, is renowned for its blend of wine, art, gastronomy, and ecological practices. Employing biodynamic agriculture, it features llamas, shire horses, and CO2 recycling, alongside its luxurious accommodations and Michelin-starred dining. Château d’Yquem, at 13th place, is celebrated as the pinnacle of sweet wines, with its historic estate producing exceptional vintages from meticulously hand-picked grapes. Château Pape Clément, ranked 21st, combines rich history with art and innovation, offering wine blending and pairing workshops, guided garden tours, and luxurious accommodations.

Lastly, Bordeaux’s Saint-Seurin neighbourhood is reconnecting with its viticultural roots through a community project to plant about 40 vine plants near the Saint-Seurin Basilica. The initiative, led by the Faubourg-Saint-Seurin association, aims to mitigate urban heat islands, foster community engagement, and honour the area’s suburban vineyard history. Vines planted include Coliris, a mildew-resistant variety developed by Inrae, and no pesticides are used. The project is not commercial but focuses on community engagement, with plans to celebrate harvests through local events.

Sources: Vitisphere, Terre de Vins, Sud Ouest, World’s Best Vineyards