News Digest: September 2024

by Valeria Tenison

The 2024 harvest in Bordeaux began in late August with the grapes for crémants, followed by white grapes at the beginning of September and red grape harvest at the fourth week of the month. ‘The harvest will be small due to the deliberate reduction in the area under vine – 103,000 hectares last year – and damage caused by rain-related diseases, according to the Bordeaux Wine Trade Council (CIVB). Bordeaux’s wine production is expected to be historically low, with red wines in particular due to be produced at volumes far below demand, which could lead to rising prices.

Pulling out the vines is still a hot topic. The French government has requested €120 million from the EU to uproot 30,000ha of vineyards, primarily in Bordeaux. Overproduction, coupled with changing drinking habits, is driving this drastic move. French winegrowers are being offered compensation for uprooting vines, but they must agree not to replant. The EU’s response is expected within a month, and the decision could have significant long-term effects on the wine industry.

Lidl’s autumn Foire aux Vins has stirred tensions again. The retailer offers incredibly low prices, with Bordeaux wines starting at just €1.64, and regions like Gascony and Rhône see similarly low figures. While Lidl claims it supports the industry through large-volume purchases, these discounts have reignited frustration among winegrowers who argue they can’t turn a profit. Earlier in the year, similar promotions led to protests. Now, growers again feel the pressure as the low-cost strategy pushes forward.

No digest is complete without the news from the court! Paris judicial court seized nine châteaux from Chinese billionaire Naijie Qu, valued at €35.5 million after he was convicted of laundering public funds and misusing corporate assets. Qu, who rapidly acquired 27 Bordeaux properties in the early 2000s, has seen a shift in fortunes as Chinese interest in Bordeaux vineyards has slowed. Meanwhile, in China itself, Treasury Wine Estates (TWE) is exploring a major expansion for its Penfolds brand, following the lifting of Chinese tariffs on Australian wines. Penfolds has already conducted some initial winemaking trials in the country. It plans to deepen its presence by planting vineyards in key regions like Ningxia and Yunnan.

Despite many difficulties, there is still plenty of fun to have in the region. The 38th Médoc Châteaux Marathon took place in early September, drawing 8,500 runners from over 70 countries. Participants enjoyed not just the athletic challenge of the scenic 42km course, but also the festive atmosphere with wine tastings and imaginative costumes. Freddy Guimard claimed his fifth victory, while Camille Thire-Monnier took the women’s title. For many, though, it was the unique blend of sport and indulgence that made the day.

Meanwhile, St Émilion celebrated the 25th anniversary of its vineyards’ inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List with a round-table discussion on environmental and social challenges. Wine regions like Burgundy and Champagne joined in to discuss climate change, tourism, and how to preserve their cultural heritage. UNESCO status has brought increased tourism and wine sales but also challenges like a declining local population in historic areas. This delicate balance requires collaboration across regions.

In other news from St Emilion, Sylvie Cazes, the owner of Château Chauvin, has been appointed president of the Association de Grands Crus Classés de St Emilion. Recognising the ongoing challenges the wine industry faces, she remains optimistic and is focusing on expanding market presence through events both in France and abroad.

On the political front, another prominent woman, Nathalie Delattre, a Bordeaux senator and the owner of Domaine de Bellevue in Cadillac Côtes-de-Bordeaux AOC, has joined Michel Barnier’s government as Minister for Relations with Parliament. Known for defending the wine industry, Delattre faces the task of pushing for reforms amid a divided National Assembly. Her goals include reducing administrative burdens on winegrowers and supporting innovative practices like drone experimentation in vineyards.

Finally, as we look ahead, on October 12th, Château Dauzac in Margaux will host the World Blind Tasting Championship, featuring competitors from around 40 countries, including new entrants like India, Latvia, Malta and Turkey. Last year’s surprise winner, Romania, will defend its title, while France aims to take home its fourth championship. This global competition promises to add another layer of excitement to the world of wine. Mark your calendars!

Sources: Sud Ouest, La Revue du Vin de France, Vitisphere, Vino Joy, RFI