Bodegas De La Riva Vino di Pasto San Cayetano, Macharnudo 2022

First time on the Place for this brilliant white from the Jerez region of Spain that uses a hint of the flor ageing technique but is bone dry. One of the most exciting wines on the Place this September, just arrestingly gorgeous, bursts through the palate, powerful twist of grilled salted almonds, with soaring adidity alongside juiced lime and lemon, crushed oyster shell, stretched out and thought-provoking. Tiny production from a 4ha site of 6,000 bottles. The latest wine from an increasingly productive partnership between Ramiro Ibáñez and Willy Perez aimed at reviving the historic Sherry brand Manuel Antonio De la Riva. Get on board. Vino di Pasto, by the way, refers to unfortified wines – definitely something to remember and look out for when getting to grips with what is happening in Xeres today.