Château Cheval Blanc St Emilion Grand Cru Premier Grand Cru Classé A 1995

Part of a crazy lineup of wines at a private supper this year, and this was the glass that disappeared on me almost before I noticed I was drinking it. Layer upon layer of black truffle, white truffle, redcurrant and raspberry fruit, with edges of lemongrass and pomegranate punctuating the rich texture with points of freshness. There are tannins here, offering the most gentle of guidance at this point, and yet you just know this wine has decades still ahead of it. A hot and dry year tha produced a healthy yield of just under 45hl/h. 84% of the production in this wine, harvest 15 to 28 September (matching on 1989 and 1990 in terms of early harvests over the previous 50 years). Underestimated by most critics at the time of release, this is still going strong.