Château Cos d’Estournel St Estèphe Les Pagodes de Cos 1994

This has held its colour well for a 30 year old 2nd wine, a lovely deep ruby with a burnt russet edging, opening with aromatics of library, undergrowth, and brambled berry fruit. Beautifully smoky after 30 minutes in the glass, expect soy, black truffles, oyster shell, fully melted and softened tannins. This still is mouthwatering on the finish, suprisingly so, with even a crush of mint. Not easy to find – there are just six bottles left at the estate, so a real treat to taste, and a brave move to show it in the vertical, as 1994 is a vintage that is regularly forgotten, often with reason as there were storms in August and plenty of diluted wines. 50% new oak for ageing, after vinification in stainless steel vats. Harvest at Cos took place from September 16 to 29. First vintage under this name. Bruno Prats owner (and oenologist, so very much involved in the winemaking also).