Château Giscours Margaux 1855 3ième Cru 1996

Attractive sweetness at almost 30 years old, with Left Bank personality, brambled dark fruits, cocoa bean and espresso. The best of the 1990s, this retains firm tannins, melted but confident, and maybe the first in the series where you can feel the slide towards a more modern Giscours. Tertiary notes of tobacco and smoked campfire, but this is in no hurry to go anywhere. One of the first things the Albada family did was to up Cabernet Sauvignon in the vineyards, back to what it was in the 1970s, and although this was early days, the percentage in the blend was already being increased. 50% new oak. Pascal Ribereau-Gayon consultant.