Château Gruaud Larose St Julien 1855 2ième Cru 1996

Decanted immediately on opening, because this remains firmly structured even at 25 years old, and feels a good number of years younger than the 1995. Once the oxygen softens things up, the autmnal but still-juicy cassis and bilberry fruits begin to spiral out of the glass. There is tobacco and smoked earth here, alongside clear black truffles, olive tapenade, flavours that indicate a high quality vintage that favoured Cabernet Sauvignon. Still fairly upright and strict, give it time in a carafe to ensure the tannins become supple enough to let the beauty of this wine out, but don’t feel you need to wait too long – there is real beauty here. Harvest September 20 to October 10, 35% new oak.