Château Gruaud Larose St Julien 1855 2ième Cru 2001

There is a subtlety to this that strikes you immediately – gentle smoke, cold ash, tobacco, white truffle, brambled blackberry fruits, mint leaf, totally sublime, my favourite of the line up so far. It plays to the strengths of St Julien, and plays with nuanced light-and-shade in a way that the 2000 does not at this point. This is a high score for Gruaud Larose, and reflects the heights that this vintage is reaching right now – tracking how long it stays at this level is part of the beauty of wine. I tasted two versions, one decanted and one not – the smokey side is more evident in the carafe, but I preferred allowing it to open more slowly in the glass. Harvest September 21 to October 4, 35% new oak.