Château Léoville Las Cases St Julien 1855 2ème Cru 1970

You could feel the excitement ripple around the table at the aromatics on this wine, as a clutch of wild roses came floating out of the glass. 1970 was one of the highlight years of the (generally weak) decade, but at this point you’ll be hard pressed to find examples that are still going strong. This is certainly one of them, legendary from its first years, still showing crushed raspberry puree and gentle blackberry fruit, white pepper, soft leather, smoked earth, soy, a great example of the meaning of umami in wine. It doesn’t last as long in the glass as the 1996, softening over a few hours, but it’s one to look out for. Opened just before drinking.