Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac Léognan Cru Classé de Graves 1994

Caressing in its tobacco and campfire smoke, with crushed raspberry coulis, less layered than the blockbuster vintages in the lineup but with a fresh mint leaf and oyster shell salinity on the finish. Cool Spring followed by a hot summer with thunderstorms, with a high Merlot blend because rain arrived during the Cabernet harvest, causing issues for many Left Bank estates. It’s a vintage of La Mission that I have drunk regularly, the last time a good five years ago, and remains on the exact same plateau – understated, charming and one to look out for. Jean-Philippe Delmas’ first vintage, working alongside his father Jean-Bernard. Harvest September 12 to 24 – the early-ripening location of this site a definite advantage.