Château Larcis Ducasse St Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 2005

Ruby red in colour, tobacco, liqourice and smoky oak on the nose. This was one of the more austere wines during En Primeur and over its first decade, but it has fully integrated now, with supple, plump tannins, lashings of black fruit, fresh truffle, orange peel, saffron, waves of fresh acidity, decades ahead of it. It’s on the understated side, with so much of the power remaining reserved rather than overt, but the intensity ramps up as you sit with the glass, and this is a stunning wine that sings of the slow-ageing, teasing nature of limestone. 55% new oak.