Château Margaux Margaux 1855 1er Cru 1998

Owner Corinne Menzelopoulos said of the 1998: ‘We came very close to making a great vintage’, because the excellent weather was just thrown off course by rain at the beginning of harvest. It might not have the perfection of the 2009 vintage (one of my six 100 point wines given in 2022 tastings), but it’s hard to argue with the supple, balanced and effortless pleasure offered by this bottle. Expect white truffle, soy, undergrowth, raspberry leaf, saffron, cassis, turmeric, brambled autumnal fruit and a kick of orange peel giving focus and grip on the finish. 50% of crop in 1st wine. Paul Pontallier technical director, 100% new oak.