Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 1855 1er Cru 2010

Hard to give a wine of the vintage in 2010, as there are so many exceptional bottles from the top estates, but it’s not so hard to say that Pauillac is the appellation of the year – and this Mouton shows you why. Gunsmoke and campfire aromatics, glamorously encapsulating the house style with its plush and juicy damson and black cherry fruits, supremely confident, studded with pomegranate, orange peel, cumin and freshly cut herbs, generous without relinquishing control, deceptively supple tannins that know exactly what to do. Will deliver for decades, and it is an exceptionally beautiful wine. 100% new oak, Philippe Dhalluin director. Tasted ex-retail, not ex-château.