Château Pavie Macquin St Emilion Grand Cru Premier Grand Cru Classé B 2002

20 years old this year, showing plump if softened black fruits, saffron and sweet tobacco notes (to the point that this is a masterclass in what sweet tobacco means, with its mix of smoky, woody and caramel notes). The tannins are gentle, melted into the overall structure, but there is still so much juice. The coolness of the vintage comes through in the fresh acidities, but they are lilting rather than abrupt, and this has so much to recommend. Drink now and sink into this wine. Part of the cool vintages series within this vertical. 80% new oak.