Château Pavie St Emilion Grand Cru Premier Grand Cru Classé A 2016

Approaching the 10 years moment, but still showing a closed face to the tannins, barely emerging from its primary phase. Both Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon were increasing in the vineyard at this point (with the lowest amount of Merlot since Perse arrived), bringing with them not just black fruits but a clear emphasis on floral aromatics – violets and lavender in particular. This is hugely concentrated, with layer upon layer of blueberries, chocolate shavings and bitter espresso, but at this point the team had begun to take the foot off the pedal in the vineyard, gently raising the yield, bringing down the maceration time, going towards infusion rather than punching down as a means of extraction. Think purity, nuance and a blast of eucalyptus and mint on the finish, this has a fine life ahead of it. Gerard Perse owner, Michel Rolland consultant, Jean-Baptiste Pion winemaker, 70% new oak for ageing. Tasted separately to the rest of the vertical, from a bottle I had at home.