Château Troplong Mondot St Emilion Grand Cru Grand Cru Classé 1988

Tawny brick around the edging, heading to pale rose. Gentle melted tannins, dried roses and smoked earth, this is very much in its tertiary phase, beautiful classicism, has a sense of life, but at this point is a gentle old school St Emilion, with touches of salted cracker and saffron as it opens, and waves of welcoming campfire smoke. The quality of the terroir comes through on the finish, with a gentle lick of freshness bouyed up by the limestone soils. This has heart, and is a lovely wine. Claude Valette was owner at the time, with his daughter Christine running things, and Jean-Pierre Taleyson cellar master. Michel Rolland already consultant, as he would remain until 2017. 50% new oak.