Château Angélus St Emilion Grand Cru Premier Grand Cru Classé 1988

This opens with waves of tobacco, cured leather, truffles, smoke, cigar box, liquorice, charcuterie and spice. The most evolved of the six wines in this vintage comparison but gorgeous, with delicate, finely-spun tannins. It softens into sweet strawberry puree and brambled raspberry flesh, a sign that things are on the plateau but still with generosity and a quiet power. The more you sit with it the more it uncurls and draws you in. Hubert de Boüard had taken over from his father at this point, with a key point of rupture coming in 1985 after a split over dropping fruit during the growing season, making this a fascinating time of transition at the property, as Hubert then upped density of plantings, carried out soil studies, and generally moved towards the more modern shape of the wine. No records of exact blends, so this is an estimation. One for a book and a quiet corner. Joyous.