Château La Serre St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2018

Finesse and character, with width and depth to the blackcurrant and redcurrant fruits, together with layered herbs, liquorice and sweet spices. Softly spoken at first but builds in power through the palate, and has an excellent flinty finish that emphasises the tannic grip. Restrained elegance. 50% new oak. Tasted a few times this summer, including at a veritical at the estate in July 2021. First vintage in the new cellar, where they have begun reducing all sulphur additions, and stopped cold soaking the fruit before fermentation – essentially bringing any intervention down to a minimum. Stéphane Toutoundji consults.