Château Pavie St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé 1989

This was a different era for Pavie, making it fascinating to taste now (particularly as it is now returning to some of these more traditional choices, including the blend seen here with high Cabernet content). Set on one of the steepest slopes in St Emilion, with plenty of clay among the limestone, making for a naturally powerful site that delivers long ageing wines, this majors on earthy, autumnal fruits, tertiary tobacco notes, floral rosebud aromatics, liquorice bud, spiced fennel and white pepper. A little lighter in colour than the two 1990s, not quite as brilliant in its reflections, deep cherry core with brick around the edges. The bouquet takes its time to come out, but it gathers force in the glass, showing crème de mure blackberry liqueur, gentle, and elegant, with the savoury edge of limestone. Need time in a carafe, because its charms are underrated at first. Gerard Perse arrived in 1998, so this was made under Jean-Paul Valette, who family had been owners since the 1940s, with Thierry Valette as Estate Manager. 55hl/h yield. Pascal-Ribereau Gayon consultant.