Masseto Bolgheri 1995

A lovely expression of fully mature, 26 year old Merlot, where black truffles abound. The first vintage of Masseto was in 1987, so at this point the vines were just over 10 years old. The tannins are gentle, with density through the mid palate but set against softened stewed blackberry and raspberry fruit, touches of balsamic and soy. Campfire smoke on the finish, this is ready to drink, and is very much in its tertiary phase. The winemaking at the time was more inspired by Bordeaux than it is today (meaning higher temperature and more charged extraction, among other details), so this really is a fascinating wine in the vertical to understand how the personality has changed. 100% new oak.