Opus One Napa 1979

The first vintage of Opus One, still with plenty of colour at 43 years old. Tawny on the rim with a rose-red core, faring better than I expected, juicy and delicate, with an energy that builds through the palate. Opens with a focus on autumnal fruit and dried flowers, crushed roses and raspberry leaf, and only after a few beats does the clearer undergrowth and campfire smoke tertiary notes follow up. This is a high score, but wow can you tell that something magical was happening – it just feels complete, even now, with a core of brightness and tension. There is more bottle variation with this vintage than with the 1980, but if you get one as good as this, prepare to be blown away. What a triumph for the first vintage of Opus to still be tasting like this after so many decades. Winemakers were jointly Lucien Sionneau from Mouton and Robert Mondavi’s son, Timothy Mondavi, who had just graduated from UC Davis at the time. 10 days skin contact.