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Philipponnat Champagne Champagne Extra Brut Clos des Goisses Extra Brut 2013

The first Champagne to sell through the Bordeaux system, now in its second year. This is bright and sappy, with clarity of gooseberry and citrus fruit, gently toasted brioche, full of understated power and pleasure, and touches of frangipane and almond. Love its clean lines and mouthwatering finish. 60% aged in Burgundy barrels, 40% in stainless steel tanks, no malo. Disgorgement at end of March, to deliver in January. You could drink between one and two years from now for fresher flavours, but if you want a more gastronomic experience, wait another five years. Fermented half stainless steel and half in Burgundy barrels. 4.5g/l dosage, Thierry Garnier winemaker. A cool vintage, where the grapes benefited from the warm site of this 5.8ha walled vineyard, but still were harvested into October for the first time in 20 years.

JANE ANSON INSIDE BORDEAUX
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