Organic Bordeaux: how things stand in 2022

by Gemma Hadley

Bordeaux and the surrounding 84,000km2 of Nouvelle-Aquitaine region have seen a continuous rise in vineyards converting to organic and biodynamic. Encompassing Bordeaux, Médoc, Graves, Libournais and Entre Deux Mers, the department of Gironde leads the region with organic vineyards in excess of 27,000ha.

The latest figures released by the organic agriculture organisation, Agence BiO, report that the region is France’s second-largest producer of organic wine, with 32,000ha of viticultural land committed to sustainability in 2022.

A record year
2022 saw growers in Nouvelle-Aquitaine coping with record temperatures that climbed up to 42°C together with prolonged periods of drought – conditions that helped ever greater numbers of estates to embrace less environmentally-intensive systems.

By the end of 2022, over 1,200 producers were certified organic according to the Observatoire Régional de l’Agriculture Biologique Nouvelle-Aquitaine, a 3.1% increase from figures in 2021 and a 200% rise from 2012. The Gironde represents 64% of all the organic producers of Nouvelle Aquitaine.

Although these figures are continuing to rise, the exponential growth of the last 10 years has started to taper. External pressures such as inflation and global financial uncertainty, together with specific reforms to the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) may be partially responsible.

What is certain is that there are increased costs involved in this way of farming. According to figures from the Gironde Chamber of Agriculture, organic conversion incurs 28% higher costs for growers, while yields are reduced by approximately 20%. Against a backdrop of rising energy prices, increasing raw material costs (such as glass and corks) and the addition of application fees, moving to organic presents a significant financial outlay for vintners, and it is one that may be beginning to seem too steep.

Overall in 2022, Nouvelle-Aquitaine saw a 4.3% increase from 2021 in vineyard land certified organic or in conversion, reports Agence BiO. Yet look closer, and you see that while the area of certified organic vineyards has increased by 25.5% to 18,900ha, surfaces in conversion have dropped to 16,800ha which is 12% lower than in 2021.

Although many producers pursue organic and biodynamic principles, not all believe in official certification, while France’s leading environmental certifications, Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) and even Agriculture Biologique (AB) have been called into question over how environmentally friendly they really are.

Organic vineyards typically consume large amounts of tractor diesel as it can be necessary to spray vines more frequently with the permitted, non-synthetic pesticides. There is also ongoing concern regarding soil toxicity due to the use of ‘Bordeaux Mixture’, a traditional pesticide made from lime and copper sulphate – although in response the International Biocontrol Manufacturers Association points out that 90% of organically cultivated land forgo pesticides entirely, and on many cases natural remedies, such as baking soda or vegetable oils, are used as a last resort.

From Organic to Biodynamic
To a greater extent producers are looking towards biodynamics for a more comprehensive, ‘greener’ approach. Encompassing soil restoration, biodiversity and lunar rhythms, biodynamic viticulture aims to develop a self-sustaining, ecological closed system.

Gaining traction in recent years, more and more vineyards are seeking out official biodynamic accreditation from the principal certification bodies, Demeter and Biodyvin. With prominent estates converting to biodynamic such as Château Palmer in Margaux, Château Mazèyres in Pomerol and Château Pontet Canet in Pauillac, Demeter has recorded a significant rise in interest for certification. Their website lists 595 biodynamic-certified wineries in France, of which 77 (12%) are in Bordeaux. These figures will likely continue to grow.

Market trends
Despite the concern over the costs of converting to greener vineyards, there is a financial incentive for growers to turn to organic and biodynamic farming.

Demand for sustainably produced wine is rising as consumers commit to reducing their impact on the planet. While inflation and falling consumer spending have scaled back overall buying, the organic wine industry has shown considerable resilience.

In 2022 France’s consumption of organic groceries fell by nearly 6%, yet, spending on organic wine increased by 2% states Agence BiO. Globally the organic wine market is predicted to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10.2% from 2022 to 2030.

For this to continue, Pierre-Henri Cosyns, president of Vignerons, Agence BiO Nouvelle-Aquitaine says, ‘We must invest in more research and establish a network of specialist advisers. Only by doing so can we achieve organic excellence and ensure the consistency and quality of our vintages’. Red tape and production costs present challenges, but as global temperatures rise, and consumers become more conscious of their carbon footprint, demand for sustainable wine is anticipated to remain strong.

by Gemma Hadley