News Digest August 2024
by Valeria Tenison
Plenty to report, even during the holiday month of August, starting with ten bottles of Petrus that were used for making Sangria in a Spanish bar. Spanish nightclub Chignon Nights posted a video to its instagram account showing an (alleged? can it be real Petrus??) €120,000 sangria made with the Pomerol icon – that sells for several thousand euros per bottle. The video was captioned “La Sangria Mas Cara del Mundo” (“The Most Expensive Sangria in the World”).
Then there’s Thomas Boudat, Olympic cyclist from Château de Viaut in Entre deux Mers – who is returning now the Games are finished to take over at the family estate alongside his brother and sister. Thomas was representing France for the 2nd time this year, after Rio in 2016, and has competed previously in the Tour de France, as well as being World Champion of the omnium in 2014. This summer, he came 6th in the men’s team pursuit.
The 2024 Bordeaux wine harvest is expected to decrease significantly. This decline in production, which follows a similar reduction in 2023, is due to adverse weather conditions and a strategic plan to reduce vineyard areas. While this decrease may negatively impact individual vineyards, it could help rebalance the wine market by aligning supply with demand. However, the decline in Merlot production, particularly in terms of its vulnerability to climate change, is a concern for many winemakers. The picking for the 2024 harvest started last week with the grapes for Crémant sparkling wines, with a return to a more traditional harvest in the middle of September for red varieties.
Due to Spring’s historic wet weather, the Bordeaux wine industry is facing delays in its vine uprooting plan. Initially scheduled for completion by July 31, the deadline has now been extended to September 30. Out of 1,211 applications, 987 have been approved, covering 2,390 hectares of uprooted vines. The plan originally aimed to address 9,500 hectares. The state has allocated €30 million to support this, potentially increasing to €38 million. A second wave of uprooting, launched in June, aims to cover at least an additional 1,000 hectares.
In a new move, the French government has begun imposing fines on owners of abandoned vineyards in Bordeaux. These neglected parcels, which have not been cultivated for over five years, are seen as contributing to the spread of diseases like mildew and flavescense dorée. The fines can reach up to €5,000 per hectare. The Prefecture of Gironde urges owners to either uproot neglected vines (the officials cite 2,450ha) or manage them properly. While some in the wine industry, like the FDSEA union, support these measures to protect active vineyards, the Confédération Paysanne opposes the punitive approach. They argue that it is poorly timed and ineffective, calling instead for a comprehensive social plan to support struggling vintners and prevent the collapse of the wine industry.
The Bordeaux bulk wine marketing campaign for 2023-2024 has faced challenges due to falling prices for red wines, though whites and sparkling wines have remained stable. The region is slowly recovering from previous imbalances. Red wine volumes have declined slightly, while white and sparkling wines have seen growth. The red wine trade fell 5% in volume to 666,000 hl, with average prices down 5% to €910 per tonneaux. Notable changes include a significant drop in red wine sales in Médoc and Saint-Émilion, with a few exceptions like Graves, which saw a 50% increase. White Bordeaux saw a 10% rise in contracted volumes to 142,000 hl, with Entre-deux-Mers and Crémant wines performing particularly well.
In legal news, Larbi El Guazra has been convicted of human trafficking in Bordeaux, receiving a 30-month prison sentence, with ten months to be served and the rest under probation, plus a €15,000 fine. El Guazra ran a service supplying Moroccan seasonal workers to local vineyards, who were found to be living and working under degrading conditions. His father was also sentenced for complicity. Both were banned from managing agricultural businesses for five years and were ordered to pay over €15,000 in damages to the workers involved.
After 15 years as the General Manager of Château Marquis de Terme, 4th Classified Growth in Margaux, Ludovic David is stepping down and will be succeeded by Paloma Sénéclauze, a member of the owning family. Paloma, who has a business management and viticulture background, joined the family business in 2021 after a career with NGOs and the UN. Under David’s leadership, the château underwent significant changes, including improving wine quality, rebranding, and developing wine tourism, which led to increased recognition and value for the estate. His departure marks a generational shift in the family’s direct property management.
In the city news of Bordeaux, Mayor Pierre Hurmic plans to ban cruise ships from docking in the city centre, citing environmental and visual concerns. The proposed new docking site is on the right bank of the Garonne River. While some residents support the move, others worry it might deter tourists and impact local revenue. The city plans to use river shuttles to transport visitors, though the effectiveness of this solution remains to be debated.
Lastly, vacationers in the Médoc can still enjoy “Afterbeach” events organised by Médoc Plein Sud and Médoc Atlantique tourist offices. Every Wednesday and Thursday from 5 PM to 9 PM until September 5, these events offer a chance to explore local vineyards with guided tours and wine tastings paired with regional delicacies like charcuterie and cheese.
Sources: Sud Ouest, Vitisphere, Terre de Vins, L’Opinion, Téma Agriculture & Terroir, Chingo Nights/Instagram
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