Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St Julien 1855 2ième Cru 1959

The 1959 vintage in Bordeaux is sometimes overshadowed by the 1961 in popular imagination, but wines like this remind us that there can be magic in these bottles. This one stopped everyone tasting it in their tracks, and I’m sure I’m not the only one to still be thinking about it. Retains poise and freshness, uncurling waves of violet and gentle dried roses. So elegant, well drawn, totally spellbinding. Think cold ash, leather, fine tannins, soot, fruits secondary to white pepper and smoked spice at this point but you’ll still find melted raspberry and redcurrant puree. Mouthwatering finish, a wine that stays in your memory. Stored at the estate, without labels, partly as a protection against theft. Oak casks used for ageing, and already the secondary, softening malolactic fermentation was carried out systematically at Ducru, because Emily Peynaud was their consultant. Jean-Eugène Borie owner, father of today’s Bruno Borie. Hard to give a Drink By date, as it already older than pretty much all of us around the table, and still going strong. Recorked in 2011, with the original vintage used for any refilling required.